pretty much by saving up.. I don't have a car since I live in a small city, so I can walk anywhere (that saves some money) - next I got no kids (lots saved there too)
And then it's mostly an investment, like when you buy a house.. Many of the Pc-parts and even the TV will age, so they must be replaced over time - however, parts like loudspeakers can last for a very long time, and thus will be an investment that does not cost as much (per year). You can however build a nice silent home cinema rig like mine with cheaper parts, and you will still love it if put together right. I think for me the biggest achievement with the build was 1: That it fits just right in my livingroom, and 2: That it is always dead silent when not playing games - and which point the sound system is anyway much louder than the GPU :)
Well thanks :D then I'll keep my eyes on this bracket for the build :)
Oh I couldn't disagree more :D It still rock solid 4K60P in my games, the rig is still dead silent at idle, I've got plenty storage space left all backed up, and man does it make for a lovely home cinema as well as music listening space.. What part do you feel isn't up for the task anymore? :D
What fan hub did you use with this?
Fan hub used?
Though, does the second one run 16x? usualy its top one 16x speed, second one 8x speed and third one 4x speed max
This is an excellent build :)
How did you find out that the Phanteks Gpu mount was the one to pick?
I notice also Lian Li makes a couple brackets themselves specially for the o11 case - but it looks like those connect also the risercable to the bottom of the case - thus ruining fan placement there.. :)
Very tasteful and gentle RGB implementation :)
What are that aorus fan hub thingie on the pictures??
How did you connect all 9 fans? did you use a hub or splitter cables? :)
Very late to the game... but what CPU cooler do you use?? It looks AIO, but that rad is very thick.. :)
Though looking at other similar builds I have noticed that the power cable will always obscure the view to the fans a bit - but that should not be an issue for airflow, more so trigger some ppls ocd :)
What are those toys I see so many place inside their rigs now??
And how come you get such a beefy computer - then emulates PUBG mobile on it?! :D
Hm, but what is the difference between the 3-pack and 3 singles? would you not also be better off buying another 3-pack for the aio replacement than 3 single ones?
Just remember that in the current configuration the case airflow fights thermal physics - since hot air moves up and the fans tries to push the hot air out the bottom of the case causing turbulence. It might not cause any issues, but likely the fans must work harder to do the same job that it could have if you flipped around the top and bottom fans.
Other than that, excellent build.. wonderful planning with the color scheme and parts. I think you really went all in on that white with black details build. :)
Yes, listen to uzair. Hot air moves up, so intake from the top makes no sense - you will be fighting the thermal physics. Intake front and/or bottom in a case and then exhaust top and back is the way to go :)
I have to agree here, I also got a juicy system with lots of RGB, only to get let down by buggy and messy Asus software... Lights, Fanspeeds, clocks... all is controlled by different software, and a simple os-update can knock them out from working with lots of updates before the software might work as it should again. Asus should really get their game up on software - since they do the hardware bit so well..
Cpu cooler has a screen, Psu has one- but what component holds that last screen under the cpu cooler?
What is that led-strip that follows the shroud of the case? that isn't on the original Phanteks Evolv X..?
Hi, how does your CPU clock with the cooler? And how is sound when OC?
Also - what is Gpu temps? - I think you forgot the CPU from the part-list description :)
Does the Ram run at it's 4133 speeds? and at what settings?
Vogels EFW 6445 Plus (Wall Mount)
This is my wall mount - I can pull the TV out from the wall 60cm for when watching movies or playing games. It does quite a big difference when the seating is 3,5 meters away from the wall - distance becomes 2,9 meters instead.
I came here for the RAM - to see if people get these sticks running at it's rated speed. I wish to build a new Rig and want to run high speed RAM since a few of the games I play love ram speeds (as weird as that may sound).
I plan to run single GPU this time around, though my current build runs 1080Ti SLI I plan to wait for 3080Ti or 2180Ti (whatever they may call it) when it comes out, and just use one of my 1080Ti's until that comes out.
Did you tweak a lot to be able to do 4133? and did you ever consider getting some aio cooling on those GPU's as well? I have the same "issue" as you with my SLI setup, top card is roasting.. even if I got a MB with 1 extra slot between GPU 1 and 2.
Fan and waterpump-noise is the reason I left out water cooling :) A behemoth heatsink is truly silent when the computer is idling (not playing games) - a water cooled system never is as water always have to run, and fans always work more than in a well vented air cooled system. Looking at benchmarks of the best heatsink coolers vs aio 360 rad systems, I can't really say I'm missing out on performance either :) I'd rather have complete silence when I listen to Enya, and not gentle noise from a pump. (computer is not far from listening area). I'd 100% build without water again today :)
Could we get to see the home cinema setup? :D
it's better to point out any flaws you have in mind as that would help out others looking to build a silent home-cinema gaming rig as well :)
First I'd make sure to get an SSD for OS and Games - I assume you want much and cheap storage, so in that case I would get a smaller SSD (512GB?) for OS and Games - then a HDD for other files that does not need the faster load speeds - SSD makes a huge difference.
On top of that I'd swap the 5400RPM HDD with a 7200RPM one - 5400 is a slow spinner, and usually found in laptops, but I'd go with a 7200RPM drive for the HDD in a desktop computer.
When it comes to the monitor I think the most important part is that it is high refresh, which the Acer is. The second parameter is resolution, as a 1440p monitor will be sharper and better to spot enemies on (however, 1440p also means more pixels to push, so a lower FPS..) This all needs to be considered. So I won't really say if you should go 1080p or 144p - that is for you to find what's right - but I would go look at monitors both resolutions before chosing to find what is more important for you. Personally my office gaming righ now has 3x 1080p monitors at 144hz - but I look to replace the center one with a ultra wide 1440p monitor when I upgrade my rig, simply because its really nice to have the extra pixels - but my current rig would not be able to run the games at that high res. (this is not the rig posted here, but my older rig).
Other than that I think you found good components. I havent checked compability like case clearance, fan-slots, cpu/mb etc. as I assume those things has been made to fit in the process.
Good choice on 2x8GB RAM, as that means you later can get another 2x8GB if you someday find that 16GB isnt enough - but 16GB will get you far with gaming :) I believe the speed of the RAM is faster than the CPU takes vanilla, and slower than the Motherboard - which means you are likely going to get the 3200 speed if you select XMP profile overclock in the motherboard settings. I think the motherboard takes speeds all the way up to 4200, but such RAM is very expensive, and it is not very likely that you would even be able to overclock it to such speeds if you got such RAM - so I think the 3200 is a good speed.
PSU should also be good enough :)
Why not the best idea? :) space issues?
My SLI-rig has one extra free slot between the gpu's for clearance - but that rig runs all air cooling. Would be nice to hear how sli water cooled do :)
Last gen with 1080Ti SLI made very much sense if you wanted to play 4K 60FPS tough, a single card simply could not do it. Today with 2080Ti it can run many games 4K60, but for games that perform well in SLI two 1080Ti's still leaves a single 2080Ti in the rear mirror - which also means that 4K 60Fps on ultra still does not go on all games with a single card. However.. the price of SLI, and the heat issues it cause.. and the fact that a lot of games does not scale (or even scale negative) - and the list goes on.. is the reason I'd only recommend SLI if you KNOW that you must have it to be able to run those favourite games better (if they support SLI) - and only if you feel like spending that much more money for a good FPS-boost only in some titles. And if you don't know how to solve issues that will come up while SLI'ing - then don't bother.
However.. I've heard that Path tracing etc, could seriously earn a lot from multiple cards as the number of traces could easily be rendered of multiple cards to directly boost performance - but well - we are not really there yet :)
AORUS GeForce RTX™ 2080 Ti XTREME WATERFORCE WB 11G - how do you like it?
I've tried to find benchmarks of it, but can't find any.. Does it perform better than the air-cooled versions?
And does it perform more quiet?
and what goes on in image 9? did you rund for a bit the Watercooled RTX in sli with a air cooled one?? :o
GPU and CPUFan should always be checked to fit with whichever case is selected - switching out the cooler is much easier than the case when you first has the build done and notice things don't fit :)
Ah, with the couch master all the wires are done inside the board.. there is no excess cables - both the keyboard and mouse is on the board and ain't going nowhere. so for this Rig a bungee is not needed. On my office I have a more regular gaming setup, and because of the braided cables on Roccat, I never get issues with stuck or flacky cables. (likely also because of how I place the cables)
It is important that the keyboard I get has a Nordic key-set - I can't usefully use a say US keyboard, or even a regular English one, as it will be missing several of the characters in the Norwegian alphabet. For pure gaming that would be ok, but likely not much worth it as there are plenty awesome nordic key keyboards. I might actually try a lighter mouse next time I go for a new mouse, not because I think this one is heavy, but simply to try the difference. I used Logitec MX back in the days and liked those a lot (but we're talking 10 years back). The laser keyboard sounds interesting, though I can't see how monitor hz could matter for it, likely just that the update frequency will determine how fast you see the change from the keypress.. I mean - on a server with no monitor attached you would still be able to type, and you would have a non-existing refresh rate :)
Thanks for all the feedback - it's always good to look at new gadgets and gizmos :)
Ducky and Finalmouse is something we've never heard of here in Norway - Perhaps they are mostly in the US? Corsair and Razer are excellent choices, but they didn't have the feature which is the reason I went with Roccat. The Easy Shift functionality is something I use a lot when I play MMORPG like Path of Exile. It allows for a function (much like shift) so that every single key on the mouse and keyboard can be bound to a secondary function. The button used for easy-shift is optional, and can be on the mouse and or keyboard. For me, I use it so that if I hold Caps Lock (which I never use ingame for caps-lock functionality) then all keys behave as their secondary function. This means obviously twice as many spells, potions and other functions readily available on the buttons I use the most (both keyboard and mouse). The Owl Eye is an excellent sensor for the mouse, and both Keyboard and Mouse operates at 1000Hz - not sure which Corsair or Razer mouse/keyboard would really be faster performance than that. The 1000Hz is quite the standard for fast peripherals today, and the Owl-Eye is marked as one of the many 'flawless' sensors which moves 1:1 - I do however not have any reason to recommend the Roccat ware over Corsair or Razer - all these brands have some excellent products. At the end of the day I'd say as long as you get a fast reliable mouse with a "flawless" sensor, the grip and button setup fitting your hand and taste is what should decide the mouse for you - and with keyboards I'd recommend to find one with fast response, mechanical keys and the extra's that you like (and find also which color switch fits you best). - For me, there were quite a few products that matched what I need, but as mentioned the function that made me prefer this Roccat combo, was the easy-shift.
Final notice.. I will never again use a mouse without a 3D-scroll.. it's an excellent feature all mice should have :D
Sweet - would it be possible to get some insight on how you go ahead with the custom tubing? :D Would be nice to have both GPU and CPU on water :)
And what causes such an advise? you had a unit fail on you?
I've used Roccat for both my systems for 7 years straight now - I've got no issues with neither hardware nor software.
Don't stand over there, come on over for some LAN-party :D One doesn't need an over the top rig to enjoy some gaming :)
That is Gjøvik, Norway :D
According to Gaming benchmarks these incredible expensive GPU's will perform about 14% worse than 1080Ti's. If you actually look for a gaming build I suggest you look at 2080Ti's instead, they will outperform the Quadros in gaming with ease.. Furthermore for gaming in several newer titles I'd recommend looking for memory that clocks closer to 4000MHz. Only a few years ago going higher would not net much in terms of FPS, and that is still true for most games, but certain games of late has proved to get a rather drastic boost in FPS (especially lower and avg.) with higher clock speeds. So for the beefy build you post I'd suggest to aim for something faster on the memory :)
And finaly, if you aim for what I did and want complete silent operation, then both the Optical drive and HDD has to go, as both of these are noise-makers. I doubt this build has any of the same goals as my build though looking at the components, so it also seem it's better in areas that my build are not meant for (which is 4K 60Fps gaming with a complete silent build while not gaming). Also looks like you might plan to attach a bit too many mice, keyboards and sound systems to that build :D
hm, though do you feel it makes enough of a difference to x10 the storage price? of course one would only use this for OS and Games etc. and not all the storage. I'm on the fence on this one =)
How do you like the Intel Optane? I'm looking at weather it's needed in an upcoming gaming build :)
I don't have a count, but I did researching for components for months before picking the various parts of the system. For the PC-parts it is something I'm used to, but for the audio-part it was a lot of traveling around to various hifi-stores and listen to systems until I found something that felt and sounded right.
I work and save up _^
Not sure what you are talking about, I've never ran out of memory with the 32GB, so why would I get more?
Now that depends on who's seeing it.. Any car which are able to go faster than the speed limit is per def. overkill, yet a car enthusiast likely use something that can give a little kick when needed. I didn't pick any part that I did not feel I truly need.
For storing all my files, and to have backup of them.
So half of the drives contains all the data, and the other half contains the backup of this data. - the NAS with the two hard drives contains the backup of the most critical data, which is also located in a different part of town - so if something happens like a fire, I still got my files.
Since I do a lot of video recording in 4K, I easily rack up large files quite quickly, but I still only use like 60% of the storage right now.
I haven't had any problems running two M.2's and two GPU's in the rig.
With two GPU's the top GPU certainly gets hot compared to the bottom card.
For the thermals of the M.2 I don't have any sensor reading of that, but it should not be an issue as the heat from the GPU2 is not as much as GPU1, and the fan blows the hot air in a different direction than the M.2
The manual should state all bandwidth's that are shared, though I don't use nearly any of the available SATA capabileties of the motherboard as I only use a few SSD's in there. All the SATA HDD's are located in the NAS enclosement and thus does not load the motherboard (except the network part when reading the files off the NAS)
I would also recommend for most people to stick with a single card. Reason is that you sometimes have to do a little extra to make SLI work, and if you end up playing a lot the few games that does not scale with SLI, then you would end up wasting money (and performance).
Though some examples in 4K:
Sniper Elite 4 Ultra runs 158FPS on 1080Ti SLI, and 99FPS on 2080Ti
Far Cry 5 High runs 91 FPS on 1080 Ti SLI, and 83 FPS on 2080Ti
Shadow of the Tomb Raider high runs 113 FPS on 1080Ti SLI, and 79 FPS on 2080Ti
GTA V Ultra runs 117 FPS on 1080Ti SLI and 86 FPS on 2080Ti
Myself personally I will wait with an upgrade until next gen, and hope for it to release with HDMI 2.1 and even better RTX performance :) I might go for NVLink when I upgrade though (Next GEN SLI). I hope you will love your build when it get together :D
Not sure where you got that from. In pretty much every game that supports SLI you get way more FPS with 1080Ti SLI than a single 2080Ti (look up benchmarks). There are a few games like F1 that runs better on the 2080Ti, but that is the exception. Certainly, on any game not supporting SLI a single 2080Ti will be much better, but almost every game I've played has supported it. That, combined with 1,5 year of gaming before 2080Ti hit's the street makes it well worth it. If I had no GPU today I would still pick 1080Ti SLI over a single 2080Ti... I would however certainly opt. for 2080TI SLI ;)
In the two NAS's :)
It's just because I needed it to not make even a whisper while idle :)
While gaming it will be louder - but it's the GPU's which makes the noise while gaming anyway - I run everything custom (with boost ofc.)
Nope, I chose to rather do manual duplex through Total Copy - as that way, if some files are accidentally deleted, or encrypted by a virus - the mirrored disk will not get the error. It means more work from me, but also a safer backup. It also makes it faster to replace any disks if they should crash.