The response time is not the same as input lag. I use a 4K monitor with 60hz and an 8ms response time for gaming and I have no ghosting, no input lag and no issues whatsoever. There different level of panel quality which accounts for the end performance of a monitor as well.
I wouldnt use an 8ms monitor for a 100-144hz monitor but for 60hz, its not going to cause any problems (4K is pretty demanding anyways so 4K ultra wont really go higher than 60fps anyways).
Dont forget Ryzen has a deficit in the amount of instructions per clock which also hits it for applications like gaming as well. Its architecture is arguably better then the ring bus but its inherently slower. It does gain a lot of performance when matched with fast RAM but it seems to be hith or miss when you push for faster RAM compatibility with Ryzen although the latest motherboards seems much more stable than the original ones we had.
What I am interested to know is if the new 9000 series will have fixed the Meltdown and Specter vulnerabilities.
Well, at 1440p, the 1060 might struggle a bit so a 60hz panel would be more than fine. If you play non demanding title and dont mind lowering the settings, you might go in the 100+ frames and G-Sync would be nice to have at that point but thats for a minrity of titles.
The TN panels traditionally have a much faster grey to grey response time than IPS with the newer VA panels falling in the middle. What this means is that the things you see on your monitor change faster and is less prominent to something called ghosting where the screen is a bit behind on updating the image on your screen which makes like a shadow of the previous image being shown.
There are others things to consider too like the input lag & the amount of pixels per square inch, peak brightness, contrast ration or the anti glare coating which helps playing in a darker environment to name a few.
The S2716DG is a solid monitor but as you mentionned, it is a TN which is a trade off of less color vibrancy vs a much faster grey to grey response time.
If you want an IPS panel, theres choices like the Asus - PB258Q or the Acer G257HU smidpx which are more than adequate for your console and PC build.
I do want to point out that I own an 8700K and when its OCed with its 6 cores / 12 threads, it gets pretty hot and a 240 would already be struggling to keep things cooled without sounding like a leaf blower when in use. I expect the 8 cores CPU will run even hotter despite the soldering Intel decided to go with.
I would recommend going for a really efficient 280 or a 360 loop to keep things cool and somewhat silent.
The problems with cases that are under that price point is that they usually come with a lack fo fans or really lackluster ones.
I would suggest something like the Enthoo Pro M (TG or regular) which is a really solid case. It comes in all black finish, has a lot of space for any parts, is well designed and actually comes with 2 fairly decent fans. You can buy a single fan to add as a second front intake if you want to or put it at the top for some VRM cooling since you will be OCing.
I do want to point out that cooler might have a hard time cooling the 8600K and its 6 cores once OCed. If you want something more stable, I would recommend the appropriate Scythe cooler or something like this Phanteks cooler.
The Zotac 1080ti AMP was reviewed by Gamers Nexus and despite its massive size, it was underwhelming for thermals whch ended up hurting the performance a bit. Its not a bad card but it ends up a few frames behind better cooler designs like the Asus Strix or the MSI Gaming X (which uses their Twin Frozr cooler design) models.
I just want to point out that Ryzen based chips do not have a RAM profile to run DDR4 RAM modules at 3000 speed, you will likely have to manually set the speed to 2933 instead.
As such, you can acquire 2933 RAM modules or 3200 if you want to use your RAM to its fullest. The 3200 speed modules suggested by m52nickerson above should be fine here.
I dont know how big is your bank but when I bought my 4K monitor, I was aiming for high color accuracy, vibrant colors and low input lag for gaming. I ended up picking the Dell U2718Q monitor. It is the smaller brother of the super high quality UP2718Q which has really high color accuracy accross several color spaces and even HDR ones. THe U2718Q has a really high color accuracy for SRGB and the basic HDR color space but it is still gorgeous. The monitor is factory calibrated and I have no issues with ghosting whatsoever when I play games on it.
2400 RAM will not cause you any issues with the B350 motherboard. Manufacturers test the RAM they have but cannot test out every RAM module, brand and manufacturer so the list is more of a confirmation for some models than an absolute thing.
Ryzen does have issues with RAM when you increase its speed but 2400 should not cause you any issues.
If you can afford a bit more, my recommendation would be to invest into a Nixeus - NX-VUE24A. It is a solid monitor that is earning great review scores. It might be a bit above your price mark but on the long term, its a nice investment.
ASRock has decent motherboards for the prices they are offering them at.
Definitely not. Asus has a history or overpricing their low end models but their high end are extremely good
Pretty much what I thought. I prefer the Asus BIOS when it comes to overclocking over EVGA. Aside from this, the latest EVGA motherboards were pretty good for their prices I totally agree.
The Mortar is definitely a nice board.
The Pro4 has kindof finned VRM heatsinks which should be fine. ASRock are actually really good in terms of price vs performance in the low end. All the negative comments I saw were related to people trying to use the board with super fast RAM 3000+ which is never a guarantee when it comes to Ryzen CPUs. Even with B dies, theres always a chance you might need to lower your RAM's speed.
I do play on the 144hz monitor and I run several google chrome tabs, several monitoring apps and streams at the same time.
What I meant is that unless you can fully utilize your cores, its unlikely deliding would yield any significant performance boost. Even when people delid, the core clocks are still within 0.1-0.2Ghz at a few degrees cooler.
One of my all time favorite games is Birthright: The Gorgon's Alliance. It was a D&D based game in the settings of Birthright. It had a mix of conquest/rtx and some dungeon crawling/rpg elements to acquire rare items to help you control your realm and crush your opponents.
Another game I liked was Chaos Overlords. Its basically a city based king of the mountain game where yu expand into the city using gangs you control to exort money and fight rival gangs. »It was fairly interesting for the time.
Finally, the original Might & Magic games (1 through 5) were just pure RPG/dungeon delving goodness for its time. Most people probably know more the Heroes of Might & Magic games that become their own RTS spinoff of the games but the dungeon crawls always occupied a special place in my heart.
Are your cores running at 100%?
I have an 8700K paired with a GTX 1080 and a 1440p 144hz monitor as well as a 4k 60hz monitor and I rarely see the CPU being used at more then 30% when gaming and my temps are fine. I even disabled MCE as I had no actual need for it when gaming.
The question here is whether any of these monitors running around 100fps+?
If so, the CPU will be a heavily taxes running so many apps along high refresh rate monitor.
I have a 4K monitor and a 1440p 144hz panel and I would recommend at least a 6700K or an 8700K for running a high refresh rate gaming monitor with multiple apps running in the background. I did note that running videos on my 4K monitor didnt really my gaming performance on the 1440p monitor unless I was running videos in native 4K where I saw stutters in either the video, my game or even both at times.
I would recommend getting a 1080ti or an RTX 2080 if you can get one at a reasonable price.
The 2200G isnt a demanding CPU and not going for a beefy VRM on an expensive motherboard isnt warranted. However, if you can get one with some minimal VRM heatsink to help cool the power phases, itll help your motherboard run cooler. Also it will let you upgrade later down the road to a better CPU without the need to change the motherboard to properly support additional cores.
Something like the ASRock B450M Pro 4 would be just fine here as it has some heatsinks covering all the power phases without breaking the bank and should be fine with a 4-6 cores CPU down the road as well.
On a side note, I assume you picked the 2200G for the included graphics unit? If so, you will want to OC the CPU to greatly improve the included graphics processor and having fast enough RAM inample supply will also help your PC as well.
Does your AIO touches your RAM? When I paired these 2 with 4 RAM sticks on that motherboard, the AIO was slightly pushing against the closest RAM stick.
It would help if you provided the specific RAM kit as well as the motherboard you used.
It depends. The 2700 has more cores but current generations of gaming engines are not really suited to leverage more than 2-4 which tends to favor smaller core count CPU with faster core clocks.
The exception to this is when you start taxing the CPU cores with multiple applications running (streaming, gaming, multiple chrome tabs...) and/or using a higher refresh rate monitor.
The Ryzen CPUs are still good for 100fps or so but their architecture makes them less desirable when you want to try pushing higher frame rate (140+) for your monitor.
The Intel CPUs are better suited for this (high refresh rate gaming) but they take a bigger hit when you start multitasking because of their lower core count.
Didn they say the MSRP was going to be 700-800?
Its a temporary compromise. The load times are longer but the gameplay is much smoother and looks better as well. The OP did reply stating he had more budget room anyways so getting a 1080/2080 will be feasible anyways.
The build posted by Gilroar is fine. All you need to do is get 1 080 or above for a more consistant experience.
The RTX 2080 are about to come and would likely be a good pickup here for you since their prices will be around that of the current 1080 and should provide a decent boost in performance.
The costs might rise by about $80-120 for the graphics card but thats it. The build is more than adequate here for your needs and it has room to grow for the CPU as well.
Something like this for example...
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
While this is true, I wouldnt hamper performance by investing $140 in peripherals. Other options could include cutting down the size of the SSD and/or replacing the SSD by an HDD instead.
I use an I7-8700K and a 1080 with a 1400p 144hz G-Sync monitor (Dell S2716DG) and unless games are really pushing the CPU, my CPU rarely reaches 50% usage. Only a few rare games leverages the CPU properly (Dragon Age : Inquisition and Mass Effect Andromeda are a good example).
Unless you aim for a monitor that displays 200+ frames, I would actually recommend the 8600K unless you need the extra threads for several applications running and/or streaming/recording your gameplay.
I am also from Canada so I feel your pain regarding prices.
I would just drop peripherals at the time of building the PC and get a proper GPU and just change the peripherals down the road instead.
Nice build but the 1070 will have trouble with 4K. Even a 1080 struggles with the max settings in 4K in WoW. I dial the settinsg to 6 (out of 10) when I play WoW in 4K with my 1080 so that I have a consistant framerate to avoid stutters with V-Sync on.
I would recommend going for the Ryzen 7 2700 and putting the extra $30 towards a motherboard. I would then pick the Asus - ROG STRIX X470-F Gaming motherboard to support your build. Do note that aside from a few OCing tweaks, the 2700 and 2700X will perform identically once OCed.
I do want to point out that your choice of going for DDR4-2400 RAM will definitely be a hit on your overall PC performance. It's been well tested that Ryzen CPUs perform much better when paired with 3000+ RAM due to the nature of their architecture.
The rest of the build looks fine but I would have cut the cost of peripherals and went with a better performance instead.
I never liked ultrawides personally so I would be in a bad spot to provide any response for your specific user case.
I would actually suggest aiming for the Nixeus NX-VUE24A. Its a solid 144hz 1ms low input lag 1080p monitor that supports Freesync and is actually quite affordable.
Do note that the GTX 1080 goes for the same price as the Vega 56 card and is a stronger GPU overall. THe downside is that to get adaptive sync on your monitor for it (G-Sync), it would definitely cost you more though.
I play at 4K with a GTX 1080 at times and I can say that for less demanding titles like CS:GO, Path of Exile, Diablo 3, Minecraft and such, capping the game at 60fps+ shouldnt be a problem.
However, for more demanding titles such as Battlefield V, Rise of the Tomb Raider & The Division, you likely wont cap the game at 60fps at all times. I played those games with a mix of medium/high (requires manual tweaking) and I usually ended up in the 40-50fps range instead. I had no visible stutters and didnt feel like not having G-Sync was an issue at all.
That being said, if you can get G-Sync, no reason not to but I wouldnt spend $200-$300 more for it.
Do note you can test it yourself by having the card run at a higher resolution and then down-scaling the result. Its not the same but it gets pretty close.
As much as I like the new Classified K from EVGA, their UEFI is quite horrendous. It gives a lot of freedom but someone who isnt really knowledgeable about OCing a CPU will easily get lost in this UEFI.
Some people do need such heavy kits of RAM but those users are usually professionals and most of them use heavy demanding applications that are best left for heavier core count CPUs like the Threadripper platform anyways.
Also, the XMP profile should support up to 3466 and above its manual overclocking.
I think the latest Ryzen lineup should have an easier time with this memory speed than the original ones but above 3200, the gains are usually very small for 99.999% of users anyway.
The motherboard you picked does support 3000 speed RAM. THe thing is that QVL lists will never show every single RAM types. Theres just too many models/brands/speeds/timings to test. Instead, manufacturer tests the ones they have on hand and then, if needed, they adress further incompatibility issues through BIOS updates which is why most people ask whether or not you updated your BIOS.
That being said, its possible the RAM kit you get might be defective or the slots on the motherboard itself might be but the 3000 speed is supported integrally by this motherboard and it lists several single & dual kits of RAM from about all manufacturers so you shouldnt have any problem.
Definitely yes. The important thing is to keep the same amount of static pressure which is what the cooler was optimized around. A higher pressure should help the temperatures a bit but the gain will be a few degrees aside from less noise which is something awe can all enjoy!
The 2 PSUs are not the same quality. Looking at the specs, the G3 is a superior unit in every way possible. The fan is a better one, the operating temperatures are higher, the power system is more efficient and it is a completely modular unit where the GD is a non modular one.
From the posts on the JonnyGuru forums, its seems the GD series should be fine for a PC but its definitely an inferior unit to the G3.
Usually, for GPUs, the brands doesnt matter much, its the time and money invested in the research for proper cooling and implementation of features like 0db operation and such that matters.
For example, the MSI Gaming X brand is a well know and liked GPU for good reasons but their 1080ti armor was pretty bad. The cooler was inadequate for the card and it fell drastically in price as a result, making it a good buy for custom water cooling loops.
As such, its better to pick the card with the features you want within your budget limits than going for a specific brand to be honest.
Not to mention the temperatures will be slightly worse with the Aer fan than the stock fans on the H7 Quad Lumi due to the lower pressure of the 120mm AER compared to the Cryorig stock fan (1.65 H20 vs 1.35 H20)
Hard Drives (HDD) are basically the slowest storage we use nowadays but it is also the cheapest and works just fine for things you dont use often or that doesnt really care about speed like storing your pictures or music for example.
Solid State Drives (SSD) have different types of controllers and density but generally speaking, they use a faster interface than the standard HDD. These are generally more expensive for the same amount of storage as the HDD but offer higher read and write speeds. This can increase responsiveness of some tasks and reduce load times. Most people use these to put their Operating System (OS) on and a few games depending on the size of the SSD. They usually conenct through a SATA III port on the motherboard.
An m.2 drive is basically an SSD but it requires no direct cables to function. There are 2 kinds, the SATA III kind which means it is basically an SSD with no cables and the PCIe based ones whoich go even faster. These are the most pexpensive kinds for the amount of storage and generally yield little to no improvement for most uses like gaming and general tasks like web browsing. However, if you are someone who needs to read and write large files consistently, it can drastically improve the time you need for your tasks.
DO note that if you are using recent Intel based chipsets (Z270, Z370...), you can put an Intel Optane drive into a motherboard's m.2 slot and it will act as RAM for your HDD, increasing its speed over time as your PC sorts the most commonly used files/applications stored on it and will thus reduce the load times of those files and/or applications. It still falls behind most SSD in terms of speed but with the price of mass storage an HDD can offer, it can be interting for some users.
As such, most PC builds use a combination of an HDD for mass storage and an SSD of about 100-200GB for the OS and commonly used games. But if you dont mind waiting a few more seconds here and there, having only an HDD is more than fine.
Should be no issues directly no.
Just make sure you have enough ports for your peripherals on the new model and enough internal ones for your parts like an AIO or RGB strips if you plan on using any of them.
It kind of reminds me of Deus Ex which is a game I liked but in a different style and with a slower approach but faster paced combat. I defenitly am buying this one for sure.
I have the collector's edition of Witcher 2 and the 3 Wild Hunt and I likely will buy it again for Cyberpunk.
Just a suggestion here but with a 1060 3GB, I assume you are looking to play at 1080p 60fps?
In this case, I would downgrade the CPU to a quad core like the 1400 and get a slightly better motherboard which can actually allow you to OC the CPU which will give you better performance than running a stock 1600 on an A320 and I would get faster RAM since Ryzen CPUs really get a nice boost of performance with faster RAM.
Overall, this would be the same price but would likely give you much better performance in the end.
If you wanted a better PSU, the Corsair TXM 550W gold is only about £20 more and would be a much better unit to use but the one you picked shouldnt be a problem with this particular build.
DO note you might need to buy 1 extra fan as it seems the case comes only with a single front intake and no exhaust although its hard to confirm from the details.
Some people on this site actually operate their own PC Building business and they can probably tell you more than any opinions most of us will have about going into the business.