yes, it will read blue ray discs. If you want to play blue ray movies you will need software to do it as well.
check for your temporary locations. Windows etc. will use the temporary folder when doing things. Sounds like it is using it on the C: drive which is full. Just reset it to another drive that has space.
The ending number specifys the pack out option.
Seems to just be an enterprise SATA III SSD from 2015. This drive would cost much more than a consumer drive but if the listing isn't adding a premium to the price then it's fine. If they add a premium for it, then don't bother and just get a current ssd.
Spec sheet link:
if you link your microsoft account with the product key all you need to do is sign in after you install on the new ssd. If you don't do that then you will need to enter your product key to activate the new installation.
use the ones that come with the new motherboard. If you need more since you have 6 HDs then you use a few that you are currently using as well.
Your question seems to ask if one cable can be run for a longer distance.... Both cables are rated for 1000 mbps at up to 100 meters so they are spec'd for the same length. Yes the cat 6 can do 10gbps (which your router does not have anyway) but only at 33-55 meters max. So to answer your question, either cable will work. The cat6 might be a bit better overall and you might be able to go over spec with it easier, but on paper the are both rated the same for your use at 1000mbps
One easy one is testing and reporting. In usa you can walk into a medical facility and get tested pretty easy. I know someone in Canada who is pretty sure they had it, and went to the doctor. But since they had not been travelling internationally or knowingly came into contact with someone who had they were told to go home and wait it out and were not even tested. If they got really serious they could go to an ER I suppose. So in this case without the test, it can't even be reported at all even if it was positive.
Next you have actual reporting. Do you really trust that China is reporting all their cases after all the mis-information they gave early on about everything?
you can do it two ways.
First way is to just clone the drive as mentioned. You have to clone and not just 'copy' the operating system as there are many hidden files and boot information that won't just copy over.
Second way is just to reinstall things which can be preferred sometimes as it gives you a clean start. Just unplug your current drive and install windows onto the m.2 ssd. Then you can boot into that and your current drive will be your d: drive. Now you need to copy any data over to your ssd that you want. Note that you cannot just copy installed programs as they need to be integrated with windows. For those you will need to reinstall them. Games can be a mixed bag. For steam you can just tell it where the library is and it will use the existing files. there are even options to relocate the library and it will move it to another drive. Games you can try copying it and installing over the copy to integrate it with windows again but it might or might not work. Or you might just need to install the game new and then find the game save files and copy them to the new location. NOTE that I keep saying copy for games instead of move, so you always have a backup on your old drive until you confirm it works, that way you don't lose your save game. Once you get everything you need, you can then clean up your old drive by recreating the partition and formatting it. Here again you can't just delete all the files to get rid of windows since it has hidden boot info/partitions etc.
it could be faster to just use a switch vs a router. but then it also depends on the product as well since not all will be exactly the same. In either case I doubt you will notice any difference between the two. If you are trying something special to get max speeds maybe you need to look into 10GB routers/pc cards etc. I've really no idea what you are trying to do though.
i'm not sure what you mean by the router 'controlling the server'. Routers route traffic, assign ip addresses etc. They have different features depending what you buy such as QOS options, VPN setups etc etc. You might get different features on an enterprise router etc, which probably doesn't have wifi if that is what you mean. But it is because of the features of the router, not that it has or doesn't have wifi. I have a rackmount switch and router in my house and they both have a ton more settings available in them (not that I use any of the fancy options).
Should be fine. Your router should have 4 or 5 ethernet ports so you won't need the switch if you can connect them all by ethernet to the router. If a few are farther away and you want 1 cable from router to the switch then branch out to 2 or more pc then that is fine too.
Your card supports MU-MIMO (multiple user - multiple input multiple output). You would need two antennas to make use of this because 1 antenna is not 'multiple.
What you normally have is a 2x2 configuration. 2 transmit and 2 receive streams. So that means normally you have 433mbps x2 for 866 total. Missing one antenna will drop your total possible bandwidth in half of course.
To give further info, your card is listed as AC2100. This is just marketing mumbo jumbo, you do not get 2100mbps. You have dual band, so the 2.4GHz gives you up to 300mbps, and they say the 5gz supports 160MHz channels which would give you 866 x 2 for 1732mbps on the AC. 1732 plus 300 is 2062 and they round up to 2100 for a marketing number. You can't use 2.4 and 5ghz on the same device though, so your real max is around 1700. And then you probably don't have a router that supports 160MHz so it's around 850 really. and then with 1 antenna its 425 or lower probably. Even if you do have a router supporting 160MHz wide channels they eat up many channels and if you have any neighbors nearby with ac routers you are likely going to have interference. There are only two 160MHz channels in the usa and they overlap all the 20 and 40MHz channels that everyone else is using. Again, they may have tossed the capability into the card for marketing, but being able to use it like that is another story.
Good news is you can just buy another antenna online and screw it into the port on the card. They are not expensive.
typically, I would just do a clean install. For me, I just drop and recreate the partition on the SSD and format it. Install windows onto it, then install any of the programs you need.
to answer your question about programs on the HDD, they will still be there, but won't work since they are not part of windows registry etc. You can try to install the same program over top of the old one, but I'd just delete them all and start over on installing them. You should be keeping all your data separate anyway, so programs can just be reinstalled.
same goes for games, you will have to reinstall them for windows to recognize them. Steam can be put in the same directory and it will just re-confirm the games instead of downloading them again which is nice.
Depends on your use. SMR will be cheaper, if you just store video and photos on it then it will be fine. If you have a few in a raid 6 configuration or other write intensive scenarios it might not be great.
An SMR drive overlaps recording tracks to store data at a lower cost than PMR technology. The downside occurs when data is deleted and that space is reused. If existing data overlaps the space you want to reuse, this can mean delays in writing the new data. These drives are great for archive storage (write once, read many) use cases, but if your files turn over with some regularity, stick with PMR drives.
It could be the switch. They come in 10/100/1000 mbps versions. A new one will do all three, and old one might only do 10 or 100. Or if there is an error or bad cable, it might only connect at 10 etc. There should be a light on the switch telling you what it is connecting as, or check your ethernet properties on the pc.
Just data I googled up. SMR drives are usually cheaper, but some people will only buy a PMR drive because of performance or just simply not wanting the shingled overlap that a smr drive does.
plug your drive in and only that one. then boot with the windows usb installer. when it gets into the installation what you can do is tell it to drop/delete the entire partition on that drive and make a new one, then format it. That way absolutely everything will be gone and you are not loading up anything on the drive.
In order to know if you should go higher depends on what you are doing with the pc etc. etc. 16GB is enough for most people, beyond that depends... Are you doing VM sessions?
I'd do 2x16gb myself. leave the other slots free in case you decide to upgrade later. All the benchmarks i've seen before show next to no improvement in speed by going 4x8 vs 2x16 etc.
you don't have a ssd drive in your build. you could buy a 500gb ssd and move your operating system to it to boot from.
I don't think you can run the switch with no power at all. You still need to plug the switch into an ac outlet, and the switch will inject some power into the ethernet ports for low powered devices that you connect.
See this faq on asus site about it needing a x1 pcie slot. Worth a try.
Gold / titanium are the efficiency of the PSU. Gold being 92% and titanium 96% (both at 50% load.). They will both function the same, the gold will cost slightly more $$ in electricity costs, but it is really a miniscule amount.
Some details if you want to read more:
well, it does say to use a uefi bootable version.
This website says that the windows download tool can't make a uefi verision
It directs you to use rufus instead. I've heard of it a lot, but never needed to use it myself.
ok, found some more info here that seems to give a possible explanation.
The background here is NVME SSDs do not appear within the BIOS until Windows creates the system partition with the EFI Boot Sector. Your M.2 SSD contains UEFI driver information within the firmware. By disabling the CSM module Windows will read and utilize the M.2-specific UEFI driver.
Guide for installing Windows 10:
1- The M.2 drive has to be the only drive installed.
2 - Go into the bios, under the boot tab there is an option for CSM, make sure it is disabled.
3 - Click on secure boot option below and make sure it is set to other OS, not windows UEFI.
4 - Click on key management and clear secure boot keys.
5 - Insert a USB memory stick with a UEFI bootable ISO of Windows 10 on it, USB3 is quicker but USB2 works also. A Windows DVD won’t work unless you’ve created your own UEFI Bootable DVD.
6 - Press F10 to save, exit and reboot.
7 - Windows 10 will now start installing to your NVME drive as it has its own NVME driver built in.
8 - When the PC reboots hit F2 to go back into the BIOS, you will see under boot priority that windows boot manager now lists your NVME drive.
9 - Click on secure boot again but now set it to WIndows UEFI mode. (see #3 above)
10 - Click on key management and install default secure boot keys
11 - Press F10 to save and exit and windows will finish the install. Once you have Windows up and running, shutdown the PC and reconnect your other SATA drives.
I see some posts online for this board mentioning to enable CSM (Compatibility Support Module) in bios to be able to use the NVMe as a boot drive.
says $14.99 price on Corsair's page now. out of stock though..
could try calling asus and maybe they will mail you one... but otherwise, just plug them in individually.
The case has a few front ports that connect to header pins on the motherboard. You can probably buy a hub to connect with different plug types if you want. The motherboard itself will have ports on the back i/o plate. So just plug it in there instead of the case front. I wouldn't call that bypassing though, it is just using different ports.
Or you could just buy an adapter if you need to use the front.
it will be ok. It's just if you start forgetting to plug things in etc. Try to do it in a way that gets you there in stages. ie: get it to work and load into bios/post. day 2 get os installed. day 3 install other programs etc. that way at least when you stop messing with it for the day you know it is working.
Both are SATA SSD drives and very close in specs. You are not likely to notice any difference. With the price gap being so large, it will be better to buy on price. If the prices were closer, I'd grab the samsung but it isn't worth the extra $50.
ya, doesn't seem great. I'd really check if you are paying for that verizon router. When I look online for verizon fios (not available where I live), it gives a $39.99 a month for 200mbps but that is with your own router. Then they add $15 a month rental fee for the router if you use theirs. That is $180 a year, which you can buy a much better setup for easily compared to what they give you for only $70 or so. Essentially you break even on the rental in 4 months.... there is no reason whatsoever you should be paying a rental fee...
There is also another thing you can consider. I assume your motherboard has external wifi antennas. They are omnidirectional so don't have a lot of gain but cover a 360 degree area. Instead of that, you can buy a directional antenna pretty cheap which will be a higher gain antenna in a more focused beam type area. So you point it back to the wifi router since that is what you need instead of 360 coverage. You would not usually do this at the router itself since you want it to be 360 degree there.
You have 6 sata ports on the board. You could lose up to 3 of them depending what you install. See page 20 of the manual.
In the M2A slot you will lose sata port #1 if you install a sata drive like you have in your build. You won't lose any ports if you use a NVMe drive.
The M2M slot will make you lose sata ports #4 and #5 no matter what you put in there for the ssd (sata or nvme).
Are you sure you want to pay that much for a sata ssd drive in m.2 form factor. There are NVMe drives starting at only $15 more and go up from there. Not world changing in practical use differences, but you are getting a 2TB so might not want buyers remorse later.
You mention trying the HDMI out of the motherboard. While your motherboard might support integrated graphics, your part list has the Ryzen 5 3600 which does not have it. So the motherboard hdmi port won't work for you to test with, and you need to use the gtx 1650.
page 33 of your manual describes the configurations that will disable sata ports.
802.11n is up to 300mbps, but that is theoretical max. And that requires channel bonding to use two channels side by side at once. Since that can usually have interference problems, routers usually default to not use it. So a single 20MHz channel will only be giving you 150 max (130-150 in reality). There are mulitple channels though, so you might be having interference from a neighbor that is lowering you even further. If you have an android cellphone you can download free apps to show all the channels and their power levels so you can pick the best channel to use instead of letting your router decide on it's own. (Apple blocks those apps so you can't get one to check wifi strength.
Apple likes to dictate what you can/can't do...) You can also check to see if channel bonding is enabled. There should be a password and ip address on the router label so you can configure it, unless verizon locks you out of their device (not sure on that). It still seems odd that you are getting such low downloads compared to upload speeds. What I would do next is move your laptop/pc near the router and connect via wireless and do the same testing. You want to compare the difference of the extender vs the router at different locations to see if the extender is really the issue or if it is just your wireless in general. If you do call and get the 200mbps, also ask about the router since if it is outdated you might get a newer one for free. Not sure how verizon does it but if they are charging you for wifi i'd be pretty pissed they give you what you have now and tell them to give you a newer model. if they give it free then not much you can do about it other than get your own router with wifi. To use your own router you plug it into the ethernet port on the verizon router. Best if you can get into the verizon router and disable wireless, then also disable the router part of your own device (put it in bridge mode). You don't want one router connnecting to a second router with both creating subnetworks since then you won't be able to connect between your own devices. It looks like from the product page for your verizon router that is is just that, a router and so you probably have another box for your fiber etc. So maybe you could even ditch the verizon one and use your own, especially if they are charging you monthly for it.
the case only talks about usb ports which are usually only 2 or 4 on the FRONT of the case. There will be a cable that plugs into header pins on the motherboard somewhere.
The motherboard itself will have a bunch of usb ports in the back I/O panel and will depend on what motherboard you buy. Cheaper ones have less, more expensive boards usually have more.
For windows it will depend on what version you have. If you have an OEM version then that means it is licensed to that specific hardware/pc only and you cannot transfer it to a new pc. If you have a full retail version you can freely move it to the new pc as long as you stop using it on the old one.
First, your internet provider provides speeds in mega bits per second mbps. You usually don't talk about that and instead talk about Mega Bytes per second MB/s. So your 100mbps internet will max out at 12.5MB/s or something less due to overhead etc. Many providers have increased their speeds to 200 etc. as a minimum but the thing is they don't usually automatically upgrade you and only give it to new customers. So you can check what your provider provides in your area and if they are offering new customers minimum 200 then you should be able to just call them up and get them to change it for free (since you are paying the same price!!!) If you have 100mbps ethernet ports on an old router etc, then of course you would have to upgrade that as well to get the speeds. The next port upgrade over 100 mbps would be 1000 mbps which is typical in new hardware.
Next, your extender is connecting to your existing router over wifi. So it will always be slower since it has to be a sort of middleman interacting with the router as well as your pc. Your extender can do 300mbps, but that is UP TO 300mbps. So if you have a crappy old router only having 54mbps (which is 802.11g) then that is the max you can do over wifi, and it will be less due to the extender. In that case you will need to upgrade your router.... It would help if you put your model number info for your router in your post as well. I am also going to assume that when you say it is 3MB over both wifi and ethernet that you mean the ethernet port on the extender? Well that won't make much of a difference since it still goes back over wifi to your router. Will be somewhat better but not equal to plugging ethernet directly into the router.
When you connect directly to the router with ethernet you get 6MB/s which might be fine since the game server will dictate how fast you get it, which can often be less than your max internet speed. Go to speedtest.net and see what it gives for speeds when using the extender vs plugging directly into the router. Or if you have a separate router and cable modem you can plug directly into the cable modem to see if the router is slowing you down.
My guess is you have a very old router like you said. It might only have 100mbps ports, might only have older wireless capability for slower speeds etc. Your first action would be to look up the router model and see what it's capabilities and specs are and go from there.
Samsung quality would be the 970 evo but it can be pricey compared to others. You ask if you will get the full benefit of NVMe. I doubt it. the Samsung drive has better specs on write vs the ex920 for example, but it is doubtful you will get any benefit from either. Simply put, the 970 evo can do sustained read/write at over 2000 MB/s. Studies have shown that although this is roughly 4x faster than a sata drive, you will get maybe a second faster boot time, or if a game takes 60 seconds to load, the nvme will be 58 seconds. So you really only get it in benchmarks or specific uses like the sustained transfer. The problem becomes that you can't actually transfer at that speed. Your 1000mbps ethernet port will be 125MB/s which is a fraction of the drive speed. Flash drives are about 160MB/s as well. Ok, so if you transfer from the NVMe to the SATA ssd you can maybe get 400-500 MB/s but it's still not fully using the NVMe speeds... If you don't have a specific use to take advantage of the speeds, you won't even notice it really. Other uses that would take advantage are scratch discs, databases etc. which are not really typical. Some drives are listed below along with a performance comparision.
sometimes that is easier than spending days figuring out the issue... glad you are set now.
You say speedtest.net is fine from other devices, but it is unclear from your post if your laptop is good or bad with it. If speedtest is good with the laptop but steam is slow it can simply be because speedtest will be closer. usually the closest possible. You may not be aware, but cable providers pay a fee to ookla (speedtest) to host their software right inside their hub on their own servers in order to provide you the fastest possible answer when you run it even... Not only that, but they can prioritize the packets so it bypasses congestion even. But you can check the path to anywhere on the internet yourself. Just use traceroute in a command prompt, or download a free program for it, and it will show you your internet status from start to end. ie:, from your ethernet port to your switch, then to your router, then to your cable modem, then to the cable provider (maybe a few nodes here), then through 5 or 10 or 20 intermediate points then finally to the steam server. If a midpoint router is having an issue, you can usually see it in the results. Only way around that is a vpn or proxy to force your route to change though since you can't pick your own route. You said that other devices are fine though. So you could try plugging the laptop directly into the cable modem and bypassing any routers/switches you might have. For the windows setup, you could always try formatting the drive and reloading windows if nothing else has worked and you confirm it isn't any other hardware in the network and truly the laptop itself.
It will help, but not always by much, and it depends greatly game to game. See below one review of load times HDD vs SSD vs NVMe.
The NVMe is way faster yes, but mostly on paper (benchmarks). They are much faster in specific use cases only, mainly sustained transfers. The issue being, you can't really do that sustained transfer in your build. For example, your P1 will write at approx 1333MB/s but your other ssd only reads at 232MB/s which means you can only write to the drive at a max of the 232MB/s.... Your 1000mbps ethernet port maxes out at 125MB/s and flash drives max out around 160MB/s.
Normally, I'd say you won't notice any difference, but that Kingston SSD looks so crappy that you might actually notice it in this case. Even buying a current generation SATA SSD is going to be much better than that Kingston drive.
check all your cables and connections. Then remove anything not needed for testing. This means disconnecting all HDD/SSD drives as they are not needed to boot into BIOS. Remove any flash drives and peripherals you have in usb ports. Your PSU might be working, but you might have your case wires from the power switch dislodged. Check them. Even then, your power switch can be broken so you can short the pins on the motherboard to simulate pressing the power button (google how to do this). Hopefully it is just the wiring from your power button to the header pins on the motherboard installed wrong or not all the way plugged in. Also don't forget there are multiple power cables to the motherboard and it needs all of them to work.
Not sure what answer you are looking for. One has wireless and one doesn't but you already said you don't want that answer. If you are wanting technical differences then just look up WIFI vs wired networking in general. Otherwise the differences are in the board itself and not related to wireless. And no one can answer the possible board differences since you are not listing any specific models.
From your manual:
It just means that one of your six available SATA ports can't be used when you have a SATA drive in the m.2_1 slot. You will still have 5 left and be fine. It specifically says sata mode as well, so seems that maybe using your NVMe drive won't cause it to be disabled.
This is just a compatibility note to make you aware of it and is common on all current generation motherboards, not something that is an error or parts that won't work together. This will likely go away in future generations of motherboards but it is what we have for now.
a GPU has many cores because they are doing a specific tailored task over and over and over. So they are streamlined specific to that task. A CPU does many different very complex things. It isn't really comparable.
you buy it.
Unplug your SSDs. Then install windows on the m.2 drive. Once installed on the m.2 just plug your ssd's back in and use as storage. Since you won't be wiping it clean, it will still have the old windows on it, but just won't be used.
You do not need to buy an HDMI cord. Your video card will work and display without specific drivers. You also did not provide a build list, so it is entirely possible your motherboard supports video and has a hdmi port, but your installed CPU has no capability for video thus making the motherboard video port useless in your build....
NVMe drives get hot under heavy load so that drive might get hotter in comparision. Then again, it might not as normal users are not doing those heavy loads like the benchmarks have. Exactly what are you going to be doing to have a long sustained transfer of approx. 2500MB/s to/from? If you don't have a 2nd NVMe drive to transfer to etc., you will never be seeing those speeds, and it won't be overheating anyway...