What, specifically, are your temps? Do you overclock at all or stay on base clock?
Gotcha. You gotta understand my confusion, though. If this was a long-term build, then you would've needed to make some changes; but upgrade-wise, you're in a good spot.
I’m so confused. This is a budget-mindful build and you buy the best gaming CPU you possibly can?? And pair it with an RTX 2060 Super?????
Yeah I experience some stuttering with COD: Modern Warfare due to the poor strength of the CPU. I still get around 165 FPS on medium-high settings.
Minecraft runs at over 200 FPS at 16 chunks constantly unless in a populated hypixel server lobby or something. CS:GO also runs very well. I’m not sure about GTA V but I assume it would run just fine.
PCPartPicker Part List
I have almost identical specs and they will serve you well. R3 1200 OC’s to 4.0 without even breaking 60 °C. 240 GB is the most you can get on an SSD. If you can drop an extra $40, you can grab a 1 TB hard drive for storage
Dang, you tore him apart! Although I agree 100%.
CPU: I have the Ryzen 3 1200 and on stock cooling, it can be overclocked to 4.0 GHz and never break 65° C. It’s beautiful. However, the processor can fall short of the minimum requirements in some occasions. My Radeon Software says that I average 165 FPS on COD: Modern Warfare, but when I’m playing, the CPU averages 90-100% usage and can stutter on occasion. It’s annoying and can cause me to lose gunfights. This is why I chose the 2600. It’s the next best CPU in terms of price cashing in at a shocking $120 for it’s reliable performance.
GPU: I, too, have this GPU. Not much to say about it. It works and it’s great. As you can read above, I average 165 FPS on COD: Modern Warfare and I run medium-high settings. This is your best choice for a budget.
RAM: 16 GB is perfect. 3000MHz is perfect. And RGB? All for $68? I’d buy that in a heartbeat.
MOBO: Reliable B450M. Nothing much else to say.
Storage: 1 TB hard drive as you requested and a (close to) 500 GB SSD as you requested. It’s too much of an extra price premium to go for an NVMe SSD. It only gives you an extra 3-4 seconds of faster loading times anyways.
PSU: Reliable 550w PSU which is semi-modular too! Coming from someone with a non-modular PSU, you will very much appreciate being able to remove extra cables.
Case: Well-reviewed case that comes with two pre-installed intake fans. They glow, too! The window is acrylic, just to let you know. Some people don’t like acrylic.
If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to let me know. If you don’t like that budget either, I can try to make things cheaper. However, I wouldn’t change the CPU and GPU. That’s the lowest I would go.
I have a steel legend and from what I have experienced, it works beautifully. I can overclock my r3 1200 to 4.0 GHz.
Alright cool! Then for this price point, the suggested specs are probably the best you can get. However, I would do whatever possible to invest in 16 GB of ram. It will open up a world of possibilities to what you can do.
I have these specs! Allow me to answer any questions you might have because I can tell you from experience. First off, I don’t think you can even afford these. You need windows, too. You can’t just buy parts or else it will be a heap of metal. If you could, make sure you overclock. The performance increases DRAMATICALLY when overclocked. With this CPU, I can over clock to 4.0 GHz with an upped voltage on stock cooling and I’ve never gone above 63-64° C. It’s insane. After doing so my FPS goes up by at least 20 or 30. If you have any specific questions, let me know. :)
Still, it saves him $50 and the 2060 Super doesn’t have the performance levels to actually utilize its ray-tracing features. For the same $400 price point, you could get the 5700 XT, which performs a little under a 2070 Super.
It’s how high the GPU is capable of performing at. The higher the boost clock, the higher the GPU can “boost” it’s maximum performance without actually overclocking it.
I’d suggest the RX 5700 because 1) you get equal performance for $50 less and 2) It will go with the monitor’s FreeSync.
I know you’re just doing this for fun, but I hope you realize hardly anyone appreciates you responding to every single post and criticizing their part choices. It makes it seem as if you’re putting the message across that you’re better and smarter than all of them and you want them to be aware of that. Just a heads up.
No problem. I plan to buy the 3600 when I upgrade my PC too. We will be some of the MANY MANY people who use that CPU.
Ah yes, the age-old question of the PC-building world. This is how I like to determine what people need: Do you want a top-tier, best-of-the-best performer to go with your $4000 rig? Then yes, go intel. Do you want a good CPU for LITERALLY ANY price point below $2500? Then go AMD. AMD has absolutely dominated the mid/high-tier market with their latest Ryzen 3000 chips. And they come with a cooler??? It’s just nonsense to go intel at this point. So yes, go AMD. For your price point I would suggest the Ryzen 5 3600.
It looks great! You will have a wonderful experience with this beast. I don’t see any issues with your list.
Thanks for all your help! I think I found the issue. Somehow, when my sister's friend hit our cable box outside, my WiFi adapter, while disconnected from the internet, must have installed a nonfunctional driver. I tried uninstalling drivers in the past, but I let Windows choose the driver for me. This time, I uninstalled the driver and restarted my PC forcing the driver to be installed automatically and for some reason it worked! I am back up to 230 Mb/s. Even though the issue was not related to any of your specific suggestions, I still really appreciate all of your help. It means a lot to know I have so many knowledgeable people out there to assist me in whatever I need. Thanks a lot!
Absolutely not! The Ryzen 5 3600 is a high-tier CPU and the 2060 Super is a high-tier GPU. Although, a 2060 Super is the highest I would go. In my book, you’re right on target!
No, no, no. I didn’t mean it to come across like that. I was just confused. I appreciate learning new things and am always up for criticism. And thank you! It was quite a project with that case’s awful cable management.
I don’t think I understand what point you’re trying to get across. I’m just letting OP know that nvidia = G-Sync and AMD = FreeSync, and choosing one limits some of the monitors you can select. What are you trying to tell me? Because what you just quoted seems irrelevant to what I was saying.
Isn’t the cord just a connector device? Doesn’t the adaptive sync technology rely on monitor support?
Nothing much. X570 motherboards are better optimized for Ryzen 3000 chips, but B450 will still do just fine, as long as it’s a good quality board. If you desire to do any sort of overclocking, be 100% certain that the board is safe to do so on.
Yes, and it will also run him an extra $100. It’s not even that much faster anyways. I think I remember it being 6% on average.
Also, that would require him to find a G-Sync compatible monitor. This is not a big problem, but it may take away from some of the monitor options OP might have been looking at.
This is the only thing I would add. AMD stock coolers are fine, but unless you don’t want to play with your CPU performance at all, you’ll really want to buy a fancier air cooler or liquid cooler to get the most out of the 3600. I chose this one because I’ve seen reviews that said the white LED’s on the part that covers the CPU are VERY bright, which will go perfectly with your theme.
Other than that, your build looks great!
The new Threadrippers provide unheard-of performance for rendering tasks. And I’ll asume 64 GB of ram will be enough for you.
I’ve actually already tried using the command prompt. I was able to ping www.google.com perfectly fine. So I’m not suffering from packet loss.
I will test all these things and get back to you with the results. For the answers to your questions, I meant the green square thing outside, my family has one single WiFi router, and I’m pretty sure the cable and WiFi are combined into one. I will test all of your suggested steps and get back to you with the results. Thank you for your assistance.
You gotta listen to all these people, man. Minecraft is EASY AS HECK for any PC to run. I have a Ryzen 3 1200 with an RX 570 and I run Minecraft at a solid 200+ FPS on 16 chunks. Even that’s a little overkill. I’d suggest building a PC somewhere around my specs. Click the “1 Build” button next to my name to see my parts and try to make a part list that matches the same price point.
Yes. Or you could by a wireless adapter, a little tool that allows all motherboards to connect to the WiFi. Just remember: WiFi motherboards don’t have a WiFi signal, they just have the capability to connect to one without any external tools. It just makes the whole process easier.
That is good. Ethernet is actually faster as you do not have to be concerned about things interfering with the signal. You understand what it means when a motherboard has WiFi now, right? I just want you to be informed for the future, because it is a confusing thing at first.
I don't think you understand what I mean. WiFi is short for wireless fidelity. It's an advanced connection method that allows users to connect to the internet without staying hooked up to a wire. When a motherboard has WiFi, what it means is that it is capable of connecting to the WiFi in your house. If it does not have WiFi, then you will need an Ethernet cable. This is a perfectly fine solution, but it means you won't be able to move your PC wherever you want in your house. It will have to stay by your WiFi router, unless you want to use it with no WiFi.
That’s not what that means. The PC does not give out a WiFi signal. If a PC says that it includes WiFi, that means it has a device built in to connect to the internet. This is usually on the motherboard. If it doesn’t include WiFi, you’ll need to buy a WiFi adapter.
This is as much RGB as I can get. RGB is only found on higher tier graphics cards, and that can’t be included in your budget. I did, however, include an RGB NVMe SSD, so hey, that’s nice. The cooler is better and better looking than the stock cooler that comes with the 3600. Overall, this build will definitely serve it’s purpose.
See, that's the issue. I'm not really sure what tests to run. I've tried disabling and re-enabling the adapter, I've tried running Windows Diagnostics on it, and I've tried flat-out taking it out and putting it back in. That's all I've done so far. Any suggestions would be appreciated. One more thing. My sister's friend accidentally backed her car into our cable box and our WiFi was down for a couple of days. Once we got it back up, that's when the speeds started to drop. However, only my PC is affected. My phone maintains over 200 Mb/s download. Could that unfortunate incident be a factor in this whole conundrum?
I did look, yes. I will look into the BIOS settings. Thanks for your comment.
It is beautiful, two of my friends own them. It’s cooling levels are only moderate, however. AMD can’t include high-quality coolers because would force them to increase the price. Again, not saying they suck, but it’s not something you can use to overclock on. The two friends I mentioned that own them have a 2700x and a 3700x. I just can’t picture a 3900x keeping cool on the Wraith Prism.
Now, for my Ryzen 3 1200, I can overclock that puppy from 3.1 to 4.0 on the stock cooler and never go past the mid 60’s, even on 100% load. But that’s a different story. I truly am proud of AMD for having the thoughtfulness to include functional coolers and saving consumers some cash.
I would still get an aftermarket cooler. A 12-Core professor doesn’t deserve to be held back by basic air fans. You need something nicer.
Well... I mean... if you wanna do something different, then go on ahead.
This issue with going for a very good graphics card is that you sacrifice the quality of a lot of the components. I can bump it up to a 5700 XT, which is the AMD equivalent of a slightly less powerful 2070 Super.
What the heck is a sintetic? You keep saying something about it. Do you mean synthetic?
Dude you were the one initially spreading false information to OP. What would’ve happened if he took your advice and bought those parts? He most likely would have even seen an drop in FPS depending on how bad his current CPU is. You won’t hear the end of it until you get it in your head that dedicated GPU’s are better the integrated. And that is a fact.
Correction: The 950 is MUCH better. There’s no contest between the Vega 11 and 950.
That’s according to synthetic benchmarks that the 650 Ti is better. And it barely is. I found the Vega 11 on an ordered list of performance and found the first dedicated GPU above it. That’s how I found the 650 Ti. Also, I was trying to make a point. The 650 Ti is a decade-old piece of garbage, but it still performs along side an APU that is literally months old. The APU graphics are trash. The GTX 950 is way better. End of story.
Haha, it’s cool. I thought Ryzen APU’s were way more powerful as well when I first learned about them. And yes, I agree he needs a new PC in general. However, he requested to keep his GPU, so I will make a part list matching his desires.
You are 100% correct about the CPU, it is WAY better, but you are 100% false about the GPU. The GTX 950 absolutely crushes the Vega 11 iGPU in performance. Don’t put so much faith in integrated graphics.
Even the 650-Ti which is 2 generations older than the 950, is better than the newest iGPU.
Ryzen APU’s are either for those who have such a small budget that they can’t even afford a GPU, or those who don’t even need a GPU in the first place, like if it’s an office build or something.