The 1600x is overclocked a bit and doing fine. And believe me--OLEDs are absolutely exquisite for games and movies. I don't use it for work, so...
There are some screen shift and pixel refresher settings that should help but the real key to avoiding burn-in on an OLED is to be smart about varying your content and don't walk away from the screen (paused movies and games) for long periods. This is my third OLED and I've never had burn-in issues, but this is my first time using one mainly for PC gaming so I'm just extra careful about using my screen saver and not allowing my desktop icons to be on-screen for long periods. I don't play the same games over and over so I'm not too concerned about burn-in but for folks who just play the same one or two games over and over again this probably wouldn't be the best option.
Had the same issue and ended up going with the MSI GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB ARMOR OC. I didn't want to get the reference 5700 and I'm fed up with AMD driver issues (the card will be replacing a 590 that I've been having problems with) so instead of waiting for aftermarket cards I decided to go team green.
I like it. Colors are vibrant and it has great contrast. There's a bit of light bleed, though. Would definitely recommend it for an AMD build and if you can find a good sale price.
Thanks for the advice. I'll unplug it and see how it goes.
Sapphire Nitro Gear. They have a few customizable options for their 500 series cards. My camera doesn't really do the lighting justice but I also matched up the RGB ram.
Ha, I love the card.
Just doesn’t make sense. She got the 1500x because I had a spare one from an old build and she’ll never do anything on the PC that will require an upgrade.
Ha. Why? The 1500x is already way overkill for what she needs the PC for.
Very capable CPU for the price. I used mine for about 6 months gaming at 1440p and it handled everything I threw at it. I probably didn't need to upgrade but I ended up with the 1600X at a great price and decided to go ahead and swap them.
It stayed cool and pretty quiet. I stuck with the factory OC but used a custom fan curve in MSI Afterburner and I was pleased with the temps and noise. Never had to contact CS.
I swear I've seen the Gigabyte Windforce OC for well under $500, but it looks like the price has gone up a bit recently. Anyway, I had that card before I upgraded to a 1080ti and I was really happy with it.
Thanks. I actually hadn't seen this and I might grab it. It's way overkill for her needs but it does look cool and it could still be nice to have if my son ends up inheriting this as his first PC.
Yup, reading about that now. Only been building for about a year so I've got lots to catch up on.
Okay, so 4GB should be good. I guess that was my main question. I was also debating DDR3 vs DDR4 and at what speeds, but I'll just figure that out on my own.
Get a 1050ti if you're going to be doing any kind of real gaming. I'm using the 1030 in a current build but that's only because it will almost certainly never be used for gaming outside of maybe some browser games (the PC is for my mother-in-law). Saving up for the 1050ti is absolutely worth it if you want to play some actual PC games.
He has $700 tops to spend on the entire rig.
There's nothing wrong with RGB or LEDs, but that's crazy if you don't have the option to turn it off on something like a laptop.
Wasn't LostElement just speaking his mind, though...
Still using the X42. Stays relatively quiet but it's been hard to really gauge this summer since it's been hot and I've had fans running in the same room. I'm still fine with the X42 for now.
Nevermind! I realized all my games were running like crap this morning and for some reason my GPU was way underclocked in the Trixx app. I just fixed it and tested PUBG again and was getting 40-50fps @ 1440p and high settings. Still not amazing considering how ugly the game is but much better, and it plays smooth thanks to freesync.
I mostly play action/adventure games, FPS, and narrative games but I did test out PUBG on this. It actually ran like crap. Most new AAA games easily get 60+ fps on high settings @ 1440p but for some reason PUBG barely gets up to 30fps even on medium/1080p.
This is my second 8GB Nitro+ 580 and the card definitely feels right at home on a 1440p monitor. Depending on the game you can get 60-100 fps if you find the right spot been high and ultra settings, or even better with well optimized games like Doom. It's good enough that I'm planning on just skipping Vega altogether.
1080 is more than fine for 1440p, as well. If/when you upgrade to a new monitor the 1080 will be enough to handle a 1440p/144hz monitor. Or even a 3440x1440p ultrawide.
Generally, I prefer Asus over Gigabyte. If you're looking for the best overall 1080ti, I'd recommend the Strix OC Gaming. But really, any of the cards in that article you posted are going to be incredible cards. Just go with what you like best and what best fits your build.
If you're willing to pay the current Vega 64 prices (~$700), just pay a little more for a truly beastly card like the Strix Gaming 1080ti. However, if you're looking to spend what the Vega 64 SHOULD cost based on its performance (~$500) you should just get a regular 1080. I think newegg has the Windforce OC with a free copy of Destiny 2 tax-free at $500 right now.
There's no benefit to having an AMD CPU/GPU combo. The bottom line is that you'll get better performance and more bang for your buck from Nvidia right now. And if you're dead set on getting an AMD GPU, I would recommend holding off until some better aftermarket cards are available. I really wanted Vega to be a big win for AMD, but so far it looks like a bit of a bust.
I don't see how you can see it as anything but a letdown at this point. Just how much of a letdown is debatable, but your expectations would have had to be rock bottom for this launch to be anything but a disappointment.
Thanks, that's actually the one I'm probably going to get so she can manage all the music and photos she has stored on discs. I'm going to recommend that if she wants to watch blurays she just get a dedicated bluray player.
I've been playing a lot on it, but I haven't been testing much. So far it's done great handling everything at 1440p. I switched to an Asus IPS Freesync monitor and everything looks great and plays smooth, but I don't have stats to share.
Oh yeah, the response time and smoothness of the image is amazing. Any games I own on both console and PC are almost impossible to play on console now since it just doesn't feel right with gsync and 60+ fps. I was a lifetime console gamer until about 18-months ago, and the gsync monitors have been a big part of the reason why I've converted to PC.
But again, that's not to knock the LG OLED. They're amazing TVs and they're great for console gaming, but I mostly use mine for movies now.
Congrats on your first build. I'm a little surprised you had that issue with the TP Link, though. I've used it on two Win10 builds and I never had that issue. Always connected right to my router, no problem. Also never had that disconnection issue. Could be a faulty unit?
There are a handful of mods available in the Steam Workshop that make Civ6 a LOT better. Try some out and see what you think. I hated Civ6 at first but now I'm hooked.
Right. And tough experiences are only going to be exponentially more traumatizing if you spend your entire childhood shielded from them.
I have an LG 4K OLED (2016 model) and it's incredible. 4K movies and my PS4 Pro look incredible, and things run very well in game mode. It's the best gaming experience I've had on consoles.
That said, I also have a 27" 1440p Dell Gsync monitor and an AOC Agon 35" Ultrawide Gsync and nothing compares to gaming on PC with a quality Gsync or Freesync monitor. There's no way the new models of LG OLEDs can compete for gaming, even though they are incredible TVs.
Agreed. Some of the new LED boards actually look a lot cooler when there's no RGB to drown them out.
Yeah, I'm fine with 2933 and since I haven't had any other issues I'm not sure I'll even bother flashing the bios unless there are a ton of verified reports that it's stable and fixes the ram issue. Otherwise the B350 Tomahawk (arctic version for me) has been a great board.
Looks nice! Just out of curiosity, where you able to get that ram running at the full 3200mhz? I've only been able to get it running at 2933 on my build, but I have a different MSI board (which I think is the culprit) and a 1500x.
I always like seeing this board in a new build, if for no other reason that to see the intense red light that can't be turned off.
Yeah, it's crazy that it can't be turned off. I figure I might as well add some red into my build since I can't get rid of it.
And doesn't that red LED on the Tomahawk arctic drive you nuts? I have a somewhat similar black/white build (https://pcpartpicker.com/b/xpHhP6) and I'm probably going to buy some of the Sapphire Nitro gear GPU accessories in red just to accentuate that damn red light.
I take it you don't have asthma.
I'm no expert, but all the issues I've had with my GPU fans in the past have been solved by using MSI Afterburner and setting a custom fan curve. Highly recommend it.
I'm a big proponent of using a small SSD for your boot drive, and getting a big, fast HDD for the bulk of your files.
I recently added AIOs to both my builds. I'm still a novice when it comes to custom building but I had no issues. For various reasons I went with smaller radiators (120mm and 140mm), and I kind of regret not just going with a 240mm on both. The smaller ones are fine (a little hotter than I expected but I love how quiet they are), but if I want to push my CPUs with heavier OC in the future the bigger radiators would be ideal.
I've been happy with my Corsair - CO-9050017-WLED 66.4 CFM fans. I have two 140mm intake fans in one build, and a 120,, exhaust fan in another. They're pretty quiet and I've been happy with the performance. And they look cool. Both my builds are posted here so feel free to check them out and see how they look.
This will be a nice picture to include when you actually complete the build.
I also have the Tomahawk Arctic and my Corsair Vengeance LPX only goes to 2933.
It did. I think some older units don't, though. But the packaging on mine said "AM4 ready" or something like that, so just make sure you get one of the newer units.