I'd suggest at that price to specifically get an ultrawide tailored for g-sync instead of freesync, for maximum compatibility.
This is a great monitor (I have the predecessor the X34 at 100Hz) where this one runs with G-sync and up to 120Hz:
It looks like it can game at 1080p. The 750W power supply seems little overboard, since even a 650W is more than enough.
As for other changes, that entirely depends on what you are planning on doing with it and what kind of performance you are expecting.
Depends on what resolution and refresh rate you want.
EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650W should be more than enough.
Your motherboard user manual should have a bunch of helpful info about what it needs for power, cables, and the like. Cablemods power supply cables are always a beautiful addition to any build!
No problem and good luck with the build! Always is an exciting time.
Alright, just wanted to point out some things so you are aware, just to be on the safe side of things.
That is a bit overkill.. but I suppose you are right.
The i7-6700k is not bottlenecking or holding back your GTX 1080ti. This being said, I would go for the 1440p monitor.
As a reference, I'm using a 21:9 aspect ratio 1440p monitor with a GTX 1080 and i7-6700k, and I'm able to max out the framerate (100fps for this monitor) in almost every game at high or ultra settings.
Increasing the resolution does increase the amount of work the system has to put in to maintain performance, but with your setup it should handle it just fine.
The bigger issue I see with this build is the use of such a recent CPU and RTX 2080, but then they are paired with a 1080p monitor. If you are wanting to game at 1080p, you can use a much cheaper GPU/CPU combo that will still push out plenty of frames.
Power supply also seems unnecessarily large for a 1 GPU configuration.
You could even save some money without a performance hit by going with 2x8 (16GB) RAM kit, since streaming should be fine with 16GB of RAM. That is what I currently run. Also, I believe the motherboards are dual-channel meaning the quad channel RAM kit you currently have listed won't be used to its maximum potential.
EDIT: Also consider the note that is listed on your parts list:
"The Phanteks - Enthoo Primo ATX Full Tower Case supports video cards up to 515mm long, but video cards over 257mm may block drive bays. Since the Asus - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB ROG Strix Gaming OC Video Card is 297.7mm long, some drive bays may not be usable."
Thanks for the feedback. Just trying to do a sanity check before I pull the trigger.
So upping the RAM from 16gb to 32gb should be beneficial in this case? If so, do you have a certain kit in mind that could work good without being too crazy expensive?
The idea is that I don't want to buy a graphics card if I don't need to, since it would save quite a bit of money. If the PC would need a beefy GPU due to the 4k60fps content requirement though then I would go for the 1070 ti, so it is more of a placeholder for now until I figure out if this needs a GPU or not.
If it were me, I would use this PC to game and record but my brother has a deep love for his gaming consoles.
I know of several graphics cards that have 4 different video outputs. My 1080 has 3 Display ports and 1 HDMI output for example. You might just have to look around a little bit to find a different graphics card that will work with a 3 monitor setup. Or, you can do as you say and buy two for SLI (although I'm not too familiar with that sort of setup since I don't have any experience with it personally).
Thanks! She has grown just a little since the picture was taken, but she still acts like a total baby/puppy.
No problem! Everybody starts somewhere and I'm glad to help!
I regret reading this entire post, no offense.
Nice! I'll keep this as a solid option then if I can't get my standalone headset and mic to work with the console.
Will the Massdrop PC37X work fully with an Xbox one? On the massdrop page it keeps talking about its excellent drivers and volume knob, but I want to know if the Xbox will utilize these to the fullest (I know PC would but..)
I've already got a headset + standalone mic for PC, but am in need of a headset with a built-in mic for my console. Thanks in advance.
I have used both TN and IPS, but currently I play on a 100Hz 21:9 1440p monitor that is also IPS (4ms response time) with G-Sync and I believe it is very responsive. I've played similar games (COD, PUBG, CS:GO, League of Legends, Skyrim, etc) and I have not noticed any sort of latency issues, even after using a TN panel for several years.
That being said and as you have probably researched, TN panels are supposed to be the most responsive out of any common panel type, with some sacrifice to the color accuracy and viewing angles. My previous monitor was a 1080p TN panel and the viewing angles were actually pretty bad just as most people have said. However, most of your time using it will probably be while you are looking directly at the screen from a head-on point of view, so there isn't too much of an issue here. As for the colors, I definitely noticed a difference with my IPS panel, since everything looks more vibrant. As for if it is "good enough or worth it", this is entirely subjective. If possible, you should run down to your local electronics store (like Micro Center for example) and see if you can look at an IPS & TN with your own eyes to judge properly.
If it were me, I would go with the IPS panel if I had the extra cash. This is only because I have used both and I enjoy the look of the IPS panel over the TN by far.
The first one that you linked is 2560x1080p, so it is a 1080p ultrawide and not of 2K resolution or better. Also, both the second and third links are to 1920x1080p monitors but they are 16:9 instead.
2K resolution or above usually means that the resolution for ultrawide would be 3440x1440p (or better), or 2560x1440p for 16:9 aspect ratio monitors.
I can already say ahead of time that you will not be able to find any sort of variety of 21:9 monitors at 3440x1440p for under $500. The only one I could really find was this one: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DH448d/acer-ed7-340-3440x1440-100hz-monitor-ed347ckr-bmidphzx
I'm not sure about the quality or any details about it, but the price-point you are looking for usually fits a 2560x1080p (1080p ultrawide) better (as seen by the pricing in the first link that you provided).
Hopefully this clears a few things up. If it didn't then feel free to ask and hopefully I can explain or help further.
Fingertip Grip with Logitech G303 Daedalus Apex mouse.
This mouse works/feels the best with fingertip grip, with claw grip being the second best in my opinion. Palm grip feels okay-ish, but the shape of the mouse doesn't feel as smooth or form-fitting as other models of mice.
I purchased the Sennheiser 598 SE open-backed headphones earlier this year and they are phenomenal. They also go on sale from time to time on Amazon, as I got mine for $171 new back in April instead of the current $395 listed price as of right now. If those go on sale again, I would highly recommend it. I've been using it constantly and I've not noticed any sort of degradation or wear.
The build quality is fantastic and the sound is great. I can wear them for hours upon hours and they do not cause any ear aches. For music, I personally haven't owned a better pair of headphones. I also use them for playing games and as expected they deliver well in detecting footsteps and producing a realistic sound-space. They do not come with a built-in mic and they are open-backed, meaning someone sitting next to you will be able to hear the sounds coming from the headset quite easily. For this reason, I just leave them for my personal use at home and do not bring them to work.
Take a look at a couple of links that I have provided below.
These explain the sample rate and bit depth in some detail to help answer your questions.
As for SNR, it stands for signal-to-noise ratio. Essentially, the higher this number is, the better. If the device has a low SNR, you will start to hear a hum or buzzing sound when the volume is turned up to high levels. With a higher SNR, the clarity increases and there will be less background noise.
Agreed. I'm definitely sitting this GPU generation out.
To help tie together the black theme of your build, I would heavily recommend the Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 CPU cooler. I know Be quiet also recently released a Pro 4 version, but I haven't looked too much into the latest revision.
It has the same performance and silence (maybe even slightly quieter) as the large Noctua cooler, but looks much better in my opinion. The price-point is also the same as well.
I personally am using the Dark Rock Pro 3 in my main computer and it has been phenomenal for the year and a half that I've been using it for. The Corsair LPX RAM kit that you have listed is also the same type of RAM that I used for my current computer build so it is compatible with the DRP3.
It depends what resolution and refresh rate you want to run games at. But yes, those games are not really demanding and a 1070 for example would have been fine.
If you feel okay with the deal that you got, then I would say to not worry about it. The 1080 should technically last you longer since it is the stronger card.
Could be a driver issue. Sorry, I can't really recommend or think of anything else but based on the description that would be the first thing I would look into.
Of the announced games coming this year, it would have to be Jurassic World Evolution and Soulcalibur 6.
Good point about the components and price, I didn't think about that.
Double checking, but the Z333 has worse frequency range.
(2.1) Z333: 55 Hz - 20 kHz
(5.1) Z506: 45 Hz - 20 kHz
Both have the same upper frequency of 20kHz, but the 5.1 Z506 reaches 10 Hz lower than the 2.1 Z333.
Also, only the rear for the 5.1 are 8W according to the page. The front speakers for the 5.1 are 48W each, while the 2.1 front speakers are 8W each. That is quite a difference imo.
For your price point:
A good, cheap, 5.1 speaker setup can be found here: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/YwLypg/logitech-speakers-980000430
If you only have room for a 2.1 setup, then: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/K6RFf7/logitech-speakers-980001203
If you do have room for a 5.1 setup, I would recommend it. Going by the specs of both speaker setups, the 5.1 setup has a deeper/broader frequency response range, along with more powerful speakers for just a couple dollars more.
From my experience, a GTX 1080 with a 100 Hz 3440x1440 panel works wonderfully.
I don't see the benefits of going for 120 Hz 3440x1440 with a 1080, since you will likely be hanging around the 90's FPS range anyways. However, if you are like me, you will probably plan on using the monitor for years to come. This means your future GPU upgrades can fill out that higher frame rate ceiling.
If you want 1440p with a 120 Hz 3440x1440 monitor, currently I would say that is more for a 1080ti (especially when it comes to the latest graphically demanding titles). If you want the highest refresh rate today with your GTX 1080, then I would go for the 1080p 21:9 panels, whichever model is the most popular/loved.
For me, I feel that the 90-100 fps is smooth enough to be butter for my eyes so I would take the higher resolution.
Ah, thank you very much for the information! Extremely neat.
Wow, that is really nice. Would you happen to have a good link where I can read up on all of TR capabilities?
Also, what you are saying about the PCI lanes, it should mean that SLI/Crossfire will yield much higher FPS in gaming applications than most previous platforms? Or would it still be a rather small increase in performance?
This build is simply stunning.
I'm absolutely fascinated by the size and core count of that processor. This build may have inspired me to do some upgrading.... haha
Sorry, I'm not super knowledgeable but does quad channel mean it can utilize four sticks of RAM at the same time?
Thanks and sorry for the noob-ish question.
I second the MM300 choice.
I went with that for my build and it still has held up perfectly even after several years of use.
Excellent build btw but I have one question. Are both the front and top rads configured for intake? Or do you have front rad as intake and the top rad as exhaust?
Just like any of the other home editions of windows. When you are going through the install it will ask you to enter the product key, but in the bottom corner it should say "ask me later" or "skip". Something along those lines I believe.
Yes you can install windows and enter the product key later (after install). Windows will remind you to activate and I think some features are locked (like background personalization)
Basically if you have a fresh hard drive with nothing on it and you boot your system on, it will just bring up the POST screen and you can also access your Motherboard's BIOS. Other than that, it wont be able to do much else.
You need some way to install the operating system. Methods include having a Windows 10 installation CD and inserting it into your disc tray. From there you can go into BIOS and indicate that you want the system to boot using the CD in the disc tray.
Another method is buying the Windows 10 USB installer. It is similar to the previous method except instead of telling the system to boot from the disc drive, you change the boot order to have the Windows 10 USB installer be the first one the system accesses.
The final method I know of is downloading the Windows 10 installer onto a blank USB drive from their website (what I last linked). It will let you install windows 10, but you won't have the product key to activate the full version, but you can do this after you install.
Yes, I would definitely recommend a fresh install so that the drivers and everything gets freshened up and pertains to the equipment that you will be using in the new system. Any issues and or potential viruses etc would be wiped clean from the previous build as well.
You could run into driver issues if you just plug your old drive into your new motherboard and expect it to get to your desktop like normal. Hence, a re-install is usually the safest.
I believe you can download the Windows 10 installation media from Microsoft's website. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
I haven't tried this method before, but you need a blank USB drive to download this image file onto. This should then act as your installation tool that you can boot off of to install Windows 10.
Yes, you should be able to use your old hard drive with your new build. However, I would recommend just doing a fresh windows install on it (hopefully you have your installation disc/usb or you can use the windows media creation tool for installation).
If you have any important information on your old hard drive currently, I would recommend backing it up on an external hard drive so that you can transfer it back after the install. Performing a fresh windows install on a hard drive will wipe all data so it is best to check beforehand.
As for your GPU, you should be able to just remove it from your old computer and install into the new build with no issues (assuming it is currently working fine in the old build). Just connect it into the PCIe slot and provide the proper power from the PSU.
Alright that sounds pretty solid.
If you didn't have any case fans or only one small fan in a warm room, then I would be more worried.
Very small HTPC cases or some mini-ITX cases can also limit airflow and get fairly warm due to all the components being packed into a tight enclosure. Your case seems spacious enough to allow all the components to breathe a bit better.
You should be fine. As long as you have good airflow or in this case I see you are looking at the option of water cooling. It should also help give you a stable mild overclock.
I have the i7-6700k and I built back in 2016. If I were to build now, I would just go with the latest CPU for longevity, performance, and in this case a price savings as well.
It says 1.35V in his summary.
"My CPU 8700k got delidded by me with 8auer Delidding mate 2 Tool and overclocked to 5.0 ghz @1.35 V."
Yes, she is just the sweetest dog :)
Thanks for the kind words!
Hey thanks for checking out my build! That CPU cooler was definitely a key item that I wanted for this build :)
Yes, I would recommend the motherboard if you have access to it. The BIOS menu was easy enough to navigate and was overall easy to setup. It detected the speed of my RAM and tuned it accordingly without issues. I tried my hand at overclocking and the voltages were stable in the manual setting and fairly stable in adaptive mode so overall very satisfactory. There's plenty of fan headers as well which is always a plus.
As far as looks go, I think it looks pretty great. It has some LED color features like the ROG eye and SuperemeFX logos that you can adjust using some ROG software and settings in the BIOS.
My computer has been running superbly since the build so I couldn't be happier to be honest.