No, the headphones are plugged into the motherboard in the respectable ports - headphone and microphone via a splitter cable which goes into a 3.5 mm jack where i plug them in (hyperX cloud alpha)
The speakers are currently running into a power point and then a 3.5mm jack into the front io of my case
Already have played around with that one, the problem is; both the speakers and the headphones are under the same 'device' so i can't separate them
I just cleaned up my monitor a bit and replaced the cables and it all works well now. Thanks for your response!
The "best budget gaming laptop" is a really good buy. Having a i5 9300H and a 1650 is going to allow you to play most games at medium - high settings 60fps!
By Lenovo too, so you're guaranteed high quality
A 2070 Super will allow you to game very easily at 1080p 144Hz, even 240Hz.
I've got an RTX 2060 and this allows me to play almost any game 1080p high - max at 144Hz.
If you wanted ease of mind to be able to play ANY game 1080p 144Hz, take the 2070, or 2070 Super
If you're looking at getting a gaming laptop, you can generally find better spec laptops for the same price, such as these ones:
Both are from PCCG in Australia, and offer a better graphics card, more storage, 144 and 240Hz panels, etc.
When I was about 8 years old, I went for a walk down at my local boat launch ramp with my family, and ended up walking on all of the algae on the ramp, and I slipped over and my left wrist landed on a lot of oysters, leaving a 3 inch scar on my wrist...
I also have a 'dent' in my skull from when I had a broken arm. I had a really heavy cast on my arm at a young age, and being skinny didn't help with the weight, but I went to close my bedroom blinds for the night. I was on my brand new bed mattress and it was really soft, so I lost my balance and managed to hit my head right on the corner of my bedside table...
My mistake, the fan headers you are looking for IS the CHA_FAN1, CHA_FAN2 and CHA_FAN3. These are short for chassis fan, and these are the headers you need to plug the fans into.
For the fans, all motherboards generally have the same headers. Some motherboards have more fan headers than others.
What you're looking for are 4 pin connectors labelled "FAN1" or "FAN2" etc. Just plug your fans straight into them.
In my opinion, if you're looking for a laptop that will get your school work done and play games at the same time, you're probably best looking for a modern laptop with a dedicated GPU instead of a gaming laptop, as battery life in gaming laptops are terrible (anywhere from 2-6 hours) so you'd constantly be carrying around your charger (which for some people is fine)
If you're playing medium to high end games like Apex Legends, Fortnite, Rainbow 6 Siege etc, you're best to go with a dedicated 1050, 1050ti, 1060 etc.
If you're playing really light games like LoL, Overwatch or Heartstone etc, you can probably get away with a laptop with MX 150 or MX250 graphics in it.
I'm not a laptop expert, so take this with a grain of salt. But most dedicated laptop cards are alot less powerful than desktop GPU's as they don't have the power from the battery, and they tend to be underclocked from the manufacturer.
It really depends on your style. If you get a gaming laptop, you're sacrificing battery life, but if you're happy to carry around the charger with you and you have access to power outlets, you're good to go. If you're after a laptop with good battery life, a gaming laptop probably isn't the best option.
Again, I'm not a laptop expert, so take this with a grain of salt.
All the best
I don't think he'll be carrying a custom rig, monitor, keyboard and mouse around college, my dude.
Ah, very nice. Good luck!
Looks very nice and clean, but I have never seen a monitor setup like that...
Mind me asking if you do any other work than college??
I found if you turn off the switch, the power supply doesn't make any noise, as it is getting no power. I don't worry about it too much because I can't hear it when my PC is on, and sometimes it doesn't make the low electric buzzing noise
I have a Corsair CX450M Power Supply. When my PC is turned off, I hear a light, electric buzzing noise coming from the power supply. I simply switch the power supply off until I need to use my PC the next day. It doesn't seem to affect my PC and delivers the mentioned wattage to my PC fine.
EDIT: If your power supply is obnoxiously loud, I would recommend to RMA, return, exchange or get a refund and buy another power supply.
earth is a doughnut
yes, its true. you guys have been lied to your whole life.
thank me later
We make sure to stock up on in when we are in Sydney lol
Ok fair enough
You can always opt for a USB 3.0 Wifi dongle? They are generally fairly decent (especially from the brand names such as netgear)
My Dad does an amazing chilli grilled chicken.
The special ingredient is just a jar of really good Japanese chilli sauce that we can only get in Sydney, and we live about 3 hours away from there... The travel is definitely worth it ahaha.
Great build, looking clean.
I would suggest to move your GPU up to the top PCI Express Lane, as having your GPU on the bottom lane, you are limiting the performance of your system.
He has more "comment karma" because he comments more and creates more topics. He has commented 281 more times than you.
PCPartPicker Part List
This would be a much better, updated option
Hey, thanks for your quick reply!
I've talked to the school admin who was a complete d*** (lol) when I told him what I've already done for troubleshooting.
When I can connect, I get internet for about 10 solid minutes before it cuts out and says I "Cannot connect to this network".
The network will still show up though, but I won't be able to connect to it.
Thanks very much for the quick and detailed reply.
I've followed what you've said, and my laptop still does allow 2.4GHz connections as well as 5GHz connections. I'll tinker around with it and see if it will connect if 2.4GHz is first etc.
I'm still home, but I'll check out what channels the school uses, and can go from there.
Thanks very much for your help :)
Yeah, its pretty good. Considering I got the GTX 1070 for about $300 AUD ($210 US)
I would probably say Amethyst or Emerald
Ryzen 5 2600 and a GTX 1070 are a pretty neat combo which will allow me to play any game I want easily.
I still want to upgrade my graphics card in the future when I upgrade to a higher resolution monitor, though.
I have this exact cooler on my Ryzen 5 2600. Overclocked at 4.0GHz, the temps do not go over 60 degrees celcius. Amazing cooler, and dead quiet.
As Tetsuclaw said, having 3 intake on the front is plenty, and then the fans on the rear and top of the case should be exhaust. This creates positive airflow, which can help cool your components down a little easier.
There is this deal that someone has posted in the deals section of the forums, which comes with 2 free games.
Depends what your budget is. Intel has better single core performance, generally resulting in better gameplay, but AMD has more value, and better multicore performance. Since you are only going to be gaming and watching videos, I would consider you go with intel.
I've bought 2 different GPU's used from people on Gumtree (Australia buy and sell site) and I got a great deal on a GTX 1070 for $300 AUD (which is about $215 USD) and they stated that the GPU was used for roughly a year. This was about 5 months ago, and the card is still powering my system today.
I would buy used if you need too - but stay away from GPU's that have been used for mining. This puts the card at 100% usage with 100% fan speed the majority of the time, which greatly decreases the life span of the GPU.
The Dark Base 900 is a modular case, which means you can undo and unscrew parts and place them in new places not only to help cable management, but to make your build stand out. Although this is a great build with amazing parts, you should have probably gotten a prebuilt or get someone to fix up the cables for you.
Ok great, thanks for that.
I did a full clean on the card (new thermal paste, cleaned the fans, etc) a few weeks ago.
I haven't done anything to the drivers for a while, so I'll look into that.
Thanks again :)
I personally have no experience with that, but I believe you can't move your OS from one drive to another. I may be wrong, so its best for you to ask on this forum for someone who knows if its possible, or do a quick google search.
So I changed the motherboard because Intel and AMD have completely different platforms. For example, a Intel i5 9600k would use a Z370 or Z390 motherboard, whilst the Ryzen 7 2700X would use a B450, X370 or X470 motherboard.
So basically, you cannot use an AMD CPU with a Intel motherboard, and vice versa.
If you have any other questions, let me know, and I'll be happy to help out.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
This is a much better option.
Everything else is left the same.
No, its completely normal.
Just make sure to plug your HDD in the SATA slots: 3, 4, 5 or 6.
It is basically saying, when the M.2 slot on your motherboard is populated (the M.2 SSD is plugged into the motherboard) one of the SATA slots (where you plug your HDD or 2.5" SSD is plugged into via SATA cable) will not be able to be used. it normally happens to SATA slots 1 & 2. If the motherboard doesn't recognise the HDD's, try using a different SATA slot.
Yeah I know a fair bit about SLI, but I never really had a look at two different cards. I've seem a lot of builds with different GPU's not in SLI, but just wanted to check on it on this forum
The GPU isn't under warranty anymore, but it seems alot of other people have the same freezing problem with a 144hz monitor and 60hz monitor dual setup. That's the main problem I'm looking at, and the temp problem hasn't occurred since I removed the 60hz monitor
So the games don't actually crash, it's just freezing while gaming. I currently use one single 24" 144Hz monitor, with no freezes in game.
When I use a 24" 60hz monitor, all games I play freeze every 10ish seconds.
EDIT: the GPU is factory overclocked, and I don't manually overclock it.
So I've got a Gigabyte 1070 windforce (triple fan) and the temps have only risen once or twice, but it has happened, and yes, I do have a fan stop mode, so that is probably the reason why the temps rose like that.
Is 144Hz monitor really that beneficial
Is 144Hz monitor really that beneficial
In my opinion, even browsing the internet or working on your desktop it really makes a difference.
Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying 60Hz is bad, but there is a big difference.
1440p and 60Hz will be completely fine, and it will look nice.
Ultimately, its all up to you what you buy. Hope this kind of helps
Currently 16 and driving a 1997 Mazda 121 Bubble... No power steering which to be honest, drives me made (no pun intended). Looking to upgrade to a Toyota 86 GTS and I have big dreams for a Tesla Model S.
The 2060 performance is a little better than a GTX 1070. (10-15%)I would suggest a 144Hz monitor, unless you want the 1440p resolution. You could go a 1440p, 144hz and turn the settings down to keep with the 144 FPS. If you've never had a 144hz monitor before, I highly suggest you get one, because the difference between 60Hz and 144Hz is night and day.
That is a nice build my friend! +1
Did you make sure that the USB was also x64 bit? You could have purchased a x32 bit USB ISO windows copy by accident?
If not, try having a look online with that code that it gives you and see if you can find a solution.