Things look good temp wise. I personally use manual voltage and like having it locked in. Adaptive has advantages I suppose but none that I care about for a desktop.
You can always double check the thermal paste application but seeing a 10c difference between coolest and hottest cores is not too uncommon. IF you really wanted lower temps, delidding would help but those temps are not too bad.
I would kick up the cache to 47 though, I usually run them at 48 with a 5ghz overclock.
Sorry for nearly being 1yr late to respond. If you still need help please respond.
haha thanks man, I know I am late to reply but I appreciate the feedback!
Im late to reply but thanks!
I think when I wrote that I already did a "mesh mod" to the GPU side window. I removed the acrylic and replaced it with screen door mesh. It dropped temps a good 8c. I know before some games would preak 84C or so.
Please note I also have the top panel vents over the GPU, that helps a lot too. I did not put mesh on the CPU side as temps when up when I did that, I think because it lost the wind tunnel effect.
Hi, Sorry for the delay I have not been on here for a while. Im worried it would not be enough. My EVGA GTX1080 FTW barely fits. Might have about 8mm of clearance from the fan. I also spaced the fan away from the grill to help with odd fan noises that the eloops are kinda known for. So actually you might be able to pull it off.
Just keep in mind, check the dimensions of the EVGA GTX 1080 FTW, the height/thickness of the GPU is about as wide as you can go. My power cables make a hard 180* turn down and they just barely touch the chassis. the 4g MIGHT be wider/thicker. Not sure.
I have tested these cards in this configuration. They actually cool just fine :)
The air coolers do well on Xeon processors. I had that same cooler on the 12 core 3ghz (3.5ghz boost) Xeons and they easily cooled them. I mean FULL render load temps in the 60c range, no need to go water on a workstation unless there was not enough space for good air cooling.
A little trick you can do, and I think the 1080ti has this feature too is that you can remove part of the backplate, it gives the fan more breathing room when they are on top of each other.
I have tested 1080ti cards on top of each other in an open bench and think they are just fine stacked, might be a little more fan speed in warmer days but I would not be worried about it if you ever fill it with 4 cards. That is what that cooler is meant for.
Looks great! Man that GPU power :) How is the CPU power working out for you at those clock speeds? Also that Asus board does allow for some overclocking, although I would ONLY do it if you can properly stress test it. It would be bad to have it crash on a 10+ hour render.
We needed clockspeed and cores not just cores. This system was built about 7-8 months ago too so even pricing to duplicate this system today versus when I built it would be different.
Honestly the way I have it configured is perfect. No need or space for fans on the top. Just place the top cover vents over the GPU to help exhaust the air.
Also I do not think the MSI 1080ti will fit. To be sure please reference the dimensions of the EVGA GTX1080FTW as it literally is the longest and tallest GPU that will fit the BH2 with fans in the front. I do recommend the front fans over a longer GPU as well. It is way better for the GPU to have a fan in front. The EVGA gtzx1080ftw is tall enough that the power cables just barely touch the top of the case cover and I recall the MSI cards to be even taller.
You will love the Caselabs build. I should do an update as I have since put the Asus z270i and a 7700k (delid and 5ghz 1.315v) on the Noctua u9s cooler.
Technically you should be ok without drilling the hole but maybe instead go to the local hardware store and find a rubber cushion to provide some support. I know Home Depots and Lowes in the USA have little rubber feet for appliances you can get that already have two sided tape applied to them. I would get one of those that closely resembled the height of a mobo standoff. You can add two sided tape if it is too short or trim some of the plastic/rubber if it is too tall.
If you have plans to run more than 2 video cards in a case I would recommend getting founders edition cards/blower cards. That way they dump all the heat inside the case. The fan amount in here can handle 4 founders cards and Im sure 3 gpu like you plan but one of the GPU will run hot since it would be sitting on top of another gpu.
I dont think the 7700k is overkill if you will be streaming too. I mean in OBS you should set it to nvidia encoding so the impact is low on the cpu, but some games can really use a i7 even if you were not streaming. The GPU matters too but I am a fan of the i7 series for gaming. It will last you a lot longer than an i5 too so you can focus on just GPU upgrades as time passes.
I think the 7700k also helps too so that you can do more while streaming too so do not feel bad about saving for the i7 despite what people will say. Not to say the i5 7600k can not stream, Im just saying if you can afford the i7, do it.
Man I was just at that client today, I will see if I have any photos during assembly but I think the ram just barely clears. The LPX heatsink is pretty low profile and MIGHT work. I do recall hearing some boot issues with this motherboard with non ecc ram but let me know how it works for you if you dont mind.
no problem. I do highly recommend the Noctua U9S though. Air cooling does great in this case because of the wind tunnel effect
Oh that, there a bracket to top mount it. You basically need a custom loop to put a rad up there and keep intake fans in the front. If you get an AIO that has the thin soft hoses that might work. I have since gone with a 7700k and the u9s on a delid lets me do 5ghz at 1.31v safely.
the 120mm fans are in the front as intake
As Ada said, this generation Intel gave the Pentium hyper-threading so it is just a slower i3 (without an instruction that the i3 has but doesnt affect gaming).
Honestly until reviews are out we are speculating off of partial information and benchmarks. With the information we have though I would say things are looking good. Im not sure that the single thread performance will match intel's since the 7700k is clocked pretty high out of the box, but man at $329 the r7 1700 is looking like a great buy.
The coolers are Phanteks PH-TC12DX units. I dont have the clearance between the two though. It was a client build so I do not have access to it. These coolers easily kept this cpu cool while rendering though. The upgrade to this cooler would be a noctua u12s but I am not sure if it is wider and have clearance issues.
For gaming the i5 has been shown to perform better than even a 5ghz 7350k, just youtube the gamers nexus i3 7350k review. I think they provided a good review and an honest recommendation. If you plan to overclock the i3 7350k and since you already have a z170 board; it will great in a system. The main problem is that even with a 5ghz overclock (mine only does 4.9ghz) the i5 (7400 or 7500, forgot) does do better with zero overclocking.
Kind of a personal choice, save a little and have overclocking fun or spend a little more and have better FPS in games that depend on the CPU more.
Ah, yeah the g4600 is nice too, 100mhz more and if you dont wanna wait why not? Just make sure the cost of the g4620 isnt on sale which could make it the same price as the 4600. I have seen the kaby pentiums cheaper than the skylake ones due to sales and such
G6000? or did you mean i3-6100?
The g4620 would be your next up in the Pentium line. I would just get that one if the g4520 is out of stock. Also, some motherboards have BIOS update features so you dont even need a CPU installed to update the bios. It really just depends on the board though. The b250 boards are pretty cheap though and have the m.2 drives and such so you can even use a sweet Crucial mx300 m.2 in place of a normal SSD.
The more expensive ones just offer a clock speed advantage so the more you can afford the faster it will be. I still kinda feel that the base g4560 is the best value but the g4620 does kick it up from 3.5ghz to 3.7ghz.
No need to worry about temps on air with the 7700k. With my specific 7700k and the noctua u9s I was able to push it to 1.30v but in the summer in california probably 1.28v if i were to run heavy 100% loads. With an h100i v2 at max speed it was 8c cooler than the Noctua u9s but man it is loud there.
I went the delid route and saw a 22c drop in temps using coollabs liquid pro and can now overclock my 7700k to 5ghz/1.31v and in 72F peak temps are 65-66c with the Noctua u9s (92mm fan cooler).
I would get the 7700k just because the clock speed advantage and if you ever decide to overclock you will have better results. The h5 will keep the 7700k cool at stock clocks though, dont worry. If temps seem high check the voltage as some motherboards (no matter the cpu) will give it a bit too much voltage. A stock i7 shouldnt need more than 1.20-1.25v generally for stock and some do fine at 1.15v but I have seen some boards give stock CPUs as much as 1.30v which is overclock territory.
I have owned the 6700k and currently the 7700k and it is true, the 6700k runs cooler volt for volt with my samples, that said the 7700k is clocked higher stock so for your work it is worth it.
THere is also the Delid process, maybe there is someone local to you that can do it if you dont want to yourself. I saw a 22c drop in temps on my 7700k with liquid pro TIM and a 10c drop on my i3 7350k. (edit both on air coolers, the 7700k on a noctua u9s and the 7350k on a 212evo w/corsair sp120hp fan).
Some motherboard like yours is giving that thing way too much voltage. I mean anything under 1.4v shouldnt have any long term effects but at stock clocks you might even be ok with 1.15v. A 4790k at 1.308v can probably do 4.6ghz stable.
yeah you should be good with that cpu in the games mentioned. BF1 has spiked my i7 6700k on some maps to 85% use but has been smooth with a 1080ftw but not sure if those maps would stutter on an i5. Every other game should be perfect.
Well, if your not getting a K processor you can save a lot by getting an h270 or b250 motherboard. The downside to the non-z boards will be locked at 2400mhz ram. Personally with your budget I would rather get slower ram and put that elsewhere too.
With streaming you can pass the work to the GPU so an i5 will be enough as long as the games you play dont demand more CPU as some games might want more CPU for streaming. If your okay with overclocking the 7600k with a 212evo or comparable cooler (so please no cpu cooler fanboy post) will be a nice pairing with the z board as well.
Also, just a fun thing, since all these new boards have m.2 slots you can get an m.2 mx300 usually the same price or maybe a few dollars more and mount it to the board, it will be less cable management and just makes the system look cleaner. Technically less failure points too. I have a mx300 m.2 275GB on my test bench and love it. Keep in mind it is not an NVME m.2, it is ACHI like the normal SATA drives.
I am humbled that my build inspired yours! Thanks for sharing, I commented on your post as well. You did a great job
Great Build! Thanks for sharing how you use it as well!!
replied to your private message
Glad it was an easy fix, these things happen :)
glad it was an easy fix!
Silly question but did you connect both power connectors to the video card, and if you did, did you make sure they were in all the way. Also, try to use another set of PCI-e power connections off the motherboard if you have more to choose from.
Another thing that could be a weird issue, make sure you installed it on a PCI-E x16 connector that has at least an x8 connection. If you used the top pci-e connector you should be ok (one closest to CPU).
Lastly, you were plugging your monitor into the video card right? (hey this has happened more than once with clients)
Well, the main thing to look at is to make sure you connected the power switch correctly. If the motherboard has an "on" button on the physical board, you can press that as well to rule out a defective case switch. Also, make sure your pressing the on button and not the reset one.
Let me know what happens and I will see if I can further assist.
While I have not owned an iphone in years, I have heard they put a lot of effort into including a good DAC as RazerZ mentioned. It also depends on the type of computers your plugging into but many enthusiast motherboards now have pretty decent audio with headphone amps included to provide extra headphone performance.
Then there is always the option to use a sound card when your headphones or speakers reach the higher quality range.
Glad you got it off. Man the builder needs a gentle reminder to test his systems before delivering them. He should have caught that.
I agree with talby. No value to a system builder but it would make for a candidate to be modded for powering random electronics up. I have an old power supply I have out-fitted with a postive and negative post along with a power switch so that I can power water pumps, fans and even my R/C car battery chargers.
Man talby that is an awesome link! My conversion just has 12v out since that is all I needed but wow, some people have gotten creative!!
Yes it will fit, it is 160mm tall which is less than the 161mm the s340 allows.
Ah nice to hear and thank you! The case fit perfectly, it is wider than intended so the cable management holes are covered.
If you do nothing to the case, two center and center right motherboard mounting holes will not have a standoff. I drilled one hole in the motherboard tray of the case to mount a standoff. The other one had no metal behind it due to being in front of the opening of a cable management hole. The board was still sturdy and well supported.
I will say that these air coolers did an amazing job though. I would not hesitate to go air on them. I included my temps in the summary and they were below 60c at full load in my warm ambient temps.
It was truly a beast in performance, you will be happy with your setup
I think you can probably get the CoolerMaster Quickfire Rapid in Blue (the cherry switch is the blue model which is that click you want) for that price point. It's price varies from $60-80 but am not too sure where it is out now.
Generally you will want a mechanical cherry blue switch for what you describe, I believe the green does the same but is heavier/harder to press (not sure been a while) but since it is less common it can cost more.
I would make every effort possible to get an SSD. You can try for a 240GB ssd and later add a second hard drive for the other storage. Then you can have windows automatically use the hard drive for all the user data.
Best value/budget SSD out right now would probably be:
OCZ TR150 (formerly Trion 150)
If you insist on getting a hard drive you can get a Seagate Firecuda 1 or 2TB Hybrid drive. They have 8GB of flash memory and automatically uses it for the most common files to help speed things up over a normal hard drive. Seagate's reputation has been mixed but I personally haven't had any issues with the two drives I own. I usually recommend WD though.
It is funny how I cant even get those prices and I am a reseller lol. It is a tough call. If you plan on overclocking I would feel comfortable going the 6850k route....unless you can get a 6800k if you dont plan on using the pci-e lanes the 6850k offers. Only bummer for me is that realistically the 6850k might top out at 4.2-4.3ghz for a 24/7 OC while the 6700k will do 4.5ghz+ depending on luck.
I mean for the things you mentioned, there is nothing that stands out as it would really 110% benefit the 6 core, I just like more cores just because so I kinda think I would go 6850k if I were you regardless. I mean the 6700k can game and stream, engineering software usually is single threaded or slight multi-threading during the design part of use too; it really depends on what your using for software. The clock speed of the 6700k could be an advantage in engineering use as well but the nice thing is you will have the extra cores on tap to multitask or run simulations if your needs would require that.
Hum...tough call. Any chance you can get a 5820k/5930k? I would say that is a no brainer way to go.
I have the 28" Asus mg28uq. I would say 28" is the minimum for 4k and think a 29-30" would have been perfect except I haven't seen any that size. I also considered the Dell and Acer 24" 1440p for similar pixel density but went for the larger panel and resolution of the 4k monitor I got instead and am happy with it.
I use a 150% scaling which is what is in the recommended default setting in windows. I can go down to 125% but at times it's hard to read some things so I left it at 150%. 100% is too small to use. That said, at 150% I still get this 4k benefits. I love the increased working space I have which really makes 4 open windows at the same time functional.
It is funny, I have my old monitor still connected for random stuff like YouTube, music, and other stuff and I am shocked when I compare the resolutions side by side. The 23" 1080p looks so pixelated with text and such compared to 4k.
Overall I'm very happy with the mg28uq, I just wish it was IPS but those were out of my budget.
I always do drivers first then windows updates. I also like to just leave it off the network as well to prevent any windows from doing anything behind the scenes.