He's talking about an APU. So that actually fits the budget idea.
Okay, that makes sense. Yeah, I've had to waste some tubes doing that in the past... Definitely is worth it though. At least when you love right angles as much as I do.
Not bad at all for a first time build. I might suggest waiting for one end to fully cool before doing the second bend (unless of course you already did that), as doing them sequentially but immediately following each other is often what leads to the overbending you have. But since they are slight, and continue the curves well it still flows well. Congrats on the feature!
has done me solid for a couple years now. don't run a home server or have internet > 100mbps so cannot comment on reliability of speeds above that. range has been on par or better than flagship cell phones, laptops, etc.
I saw your comment about the Z170-A's IO shielding on the part's page, and since I finally tried it out, I can say it is removable. 3 Phillips screws on the back. Had to remove due to radiator clearance issues.
Thanks for the good vibes man. I'll try and keep my eye out for your next build!
Called Aquaris (no liquid cooling)
Fair enough, but in that case I'd check out some of the more RGB-friendly cards that actually thought for a couple seconds before designing their backplates, so you can use all 16.8 million colours without clashing.
Nice job man, but the GPU sag and random yellowness does detract (but do keep in mind I'm a nitpicky ***)
Perfectly fine. There's no bottleneck at all. A 6600K won't even bottleneck a Titan XP. For gaming this can handle anything you throw at it.
Thanks for the rating! As for the board, here is my response:
XMP: I did memory manually, actually at 2666, but did 3000 fine with a lower OC.
SLI: Runs perfectly. No settings to mess around with for it to work, just runs at 8*8 for the GPUs, and 4 from the chipset for my wireless. 100℅ stable with overclocked GPUs as well.
I actually had a higher end maximus viii gene before, but changed to this because it's larger, which is good for this case. And both reached the same clocks, and with the same voltage.
Yeah, you gotta run everything first. The bottom is blocked by the PSU, the side is blocked by the rad, and the top is blocked by the other rad!
However, if you do that it's actually not too hard to work with. Just remember to also do lighting first if you're using the inbuilt lighting system (which I did).
One last thing that may help you get a better aesthetic is using passthrough fittings to the back for your tubing, and maybe drilling holes for them. If that's too much work, you can do what I did and bend the tube to do what it has to in the front AND pass through the grommets and into the rear component (for you only the rad).
Hope this helps, and feel free to keep asking.
Yeah, if you're gonna put the pump and res in the front, you can easily fit the drive cage. The hardest part will be fitting the 360 rad. I've hear from a lot of people that if your rad has a lot of extra length compared to just fans it'll be difficult to fit, so keep that in mind. Some other things to be aware of: run your cables first because the rads and psu will block the grommets, and you'll either have to run the tubing through the Mobo tray where I did or drill holes yourself, as again the rads block those grommets pretty hard. I would put a pic of the back, but it's quite inconvenient given my desk setup. If you have any questions though feel free to ask.
Nah, works great. It's RAM. Pretty hard to have issues nowadays.
Would'be upvoted if you used Dominator RAM with the Dominator build
Thanks man. here are some more
Left town for the weekend, here are some more now that I'm back
NO I DON'T WANT TO HAVE DETENTION! Here, have some more pics :)
I feel you pain. well at least your wallet's pain
Like I said, give me $1000 and I'll grab a 1440p 144Hz Gsync panel. Although to be fair I do supersample to that anyways
Thanks man. Uploaded some more just now
Thanks, hope the new pictures are satisfactory!
lol regretting that decision now...
Alright, alright. Happy?
everything except the res to the pump, pump to the rad, and between the cpu and res. the one from the rad to the gpus is actually all hard tubing though (only had one valve to use as a pass-through
lol thanks man, I'll hopefully get them up sunday
You're welcome. I'm love seeing people who really care about their build. Makes me all fuzzy inside.
Very nice. Only a couple things I might change
1) I'd like to see more white in the build. Perhaps move your SSD out in front and paint the accents white, do some panels of the case, the video card, the PSU shroud, or even put some white LEDs in there (notice you have one on your parts list, but no pics with it on)
2) Get those GPU cables a bit closer together (the 6 pin is a bit too separated), and straighter.
Yes, these are very small things, but this is an excellent build, so I must nitpick. Good job man, I approve.
Is it a cooling thing or just a chip limit? I'd say you still have some playroom with the voltage otherwise, I just wouldn't go over 1.38 for daily use.
If it's a chip limit, 4.7 GHz still isn't that bad. Pretty decent even.
Had these parts for a year now, so that's why they're old gen. I'll upgrade when HBM2 hits consumer cards
Yeah, that's got a lot of the telltale signs of leeching plasticizer. Btw your flushing is more than adequate, so that should be fine.
I'm switching my latest build to hard tubing this weekend (also a new case and board), so I definitely approve of the switch. Please keep me posted, and if you have any questions I'd love to be involved.
Yeah, typos FTW. Thanks for letting me know.
hahaha yeah that'll become brutally clear once I have to pay the next round in a few months...
Not quite, there's not enough room for that. I'd need to do completely custom cabling. I actually recommend (at least in Canada) going to dazmode.com and picking up some pre-sleeved ATX cables. You have to remove the pins and put them in your existing connectors, but you don't have to solder or sleeve yourself, and they have multiple lengths for the cables. Since there's so little space here, and none that isn't visible, you need to minimize visible cabling. So definitely no extensions. If I wasn't changing cases/boards already, I'd definitely grab some. As it is I probably will for edition 4.0, but those will be longer since I will be working in an ATX-compatible case.
Thanks for the compliment though, I appreciate the feedback and (mostly) agree with you, the cabling is key in this case.
MOSTLY true. Other things CAN leak. Tubing can be punctured (rare, but it is possible you messed up while cutting it), you can not tighten the cap on your reservoir, or even just a defective product. The last one is quite rare, as most companies test before sending units out.
Caminon is right in the sense that none of this should deter you, and during leak tests you don't power the system, so your stuff should not be at risk. Especially if you use an external power supply (I do this a lot so I bought some cheap crap just for cycling pumps, so I cannot tell everyone to do that). I absolutely think you should consider custom cooling, especially with the grade of hardware you have here.
Yeah, there could be a couple things. First, if the coolant from the AIO wasn't properly flushed, it could easily react with Pastel as they often use custom mixes that don't play well with other fluids. But, if you flushed it BEFORE re-purposing that shouldn't be the issue. As for the mixed metals, if there is any corrosion going on OR even plasticizer in the tubing (haven't used the swiftech tubing before so not sure if that could be a culprit, but it's quite plausible), then that can cause separation and/or discolouration with Pastel. I'd also ask if you flushed your rad prior to installation, because that's probably the #1 reason people have issues with pastel.
As "A Member of the Watercooling Community" (despite the fact that all of my watercooled builds aren't on this site... I'll do it eventually) I have to say I definitely do NOT frown upon modding AIOs. I think it's great. If you already have one, it's a great way to save some cash on a CPU block and depending on which one (yours fits the bill), get a pretty good aesthetic. Usually I'd avoid the rad (aluminum), but the full copper blocks can be great value, and add a unique element. Good job man, I love it.
Pretty much. If it didn't cost more, why not?!
Love how enthused everyone is about the Xbox controller on the PS4. Didn't even realize it when I posted, but I guess it gives me the most equal opportunity build here!
Mostly because it was 80 bucks off, a bit because 5 GHz overclocks on CPU, 3-4 GHz on RAM, undetermined overclocks on the 980s, and a D5 pump requiring lots of power.